emperor ming - inspired by Bert

Ok, remember - I’m a gorilla 225lbs + 6’ 2" in the morning. So my shaping interests are for those with more bulk. This in mind - I used the orthodox formula - longer (6 10 ish) slightly wider (19-20") and thicker (2 5/8"-3"). Boards went well - I was pleased - thought I knew what made them go - 'til I read Bert’s postings bout his super thin but extra wide and super short small wave board.

S0… I made a 6 2 x 23 X 11.5 (nose)X 16.25 (tail) X 2"… flash gordon style rocket. (Problem is that I did a resin tint but basted the laps as I would when freelapping - not a good idea - board required super thick "pinline to compensate - looks mingin!) Well despite the hideous appearance, the board is amazing - tried it in 1-2’ super sloppy pathetic stuff and it just flies - catches waves really well despite the fact that I’m sitting nearly up to my shoulders when waiting for a wave!

Problems? - well the tail was sooo thinned out that I could only just squeak the leash plug in 6 " up - which means that I paddle with the tail submerged to an alarming degree - in fact paddling the bloody thing requires quite a bit of effort - Next time I think I’ll leave the tail a bit thicker and definitely can the resin tint (- life’s way too short!)

To bigger guys considering a Bert influenced thing - I’d say yes do it - go thinner but don’t go extreme.

its kool you mentioned this topic …

coz i was gonna rehash the old thread on width verses thickness…

just recently ive found the crossover point where width alone doesnt help, and your back to relying on volume for benifit…

your board silver back is still smaller than mine , and im a tad lighter than you…im about 220…

ive yet to find a wave so small i cant ride it …

but my longboard is a different story…

i did a super thin longboard with a concave deck…first time i rode it was in a comp , i was late ran over the hill and my heat was next…just waxed and straight into it …

the surf was pitiful , sets were knee to groin high, most of the time you were going straight in on dribble foam waiting for something to happen,

i came in from that surf a bit undecided…i bombed that contest, semis casualty…

a few days later there was another contest in the same region…this time the waves were good over the 3 days nothing under waist high up to head and a half on the good day…

just seriously blazed won every heat and took out my division…same board…

so just recently one of my team guys went to france for the world longboard titles…

he was seeded into a higher round …

i made him a board like mine , wide, thin ,concaved deck…

the surf was shocking,he said his heat was delayed 3 days just waiting for a swell…then it was knee high super soft dribble , just going straight in white water…he bombed…

he says to me “your chunka would have gone off”…

i had a board that was 9’-1" x 24 1/2 x 3 , 19 1/2 nose 15 1/2 tail…with block rails ,the thickest barge youve ever seen …

if the waves were non existent it went…

because you cant quite swing your longboard like you would a shorty , you cant use your muscular effort as well to get speed on the take off on a longboard…coz you just coast into the wave , its harder to really push off the first pump if its super small and dribbly , if the board is to thin,

i found with the chunka that if i was going to slow to move , i could push it down real hard into the water with my first pump, then as i lightened up , the board would cork out quickly , i could repeat that a few times until i had worked some speed from no power…

but my thin longboard doesnt have corkability to get it started in nothing…

justin reckons the guys who did well in the crap had long,wide,thick,flat boards that kept tonking all the way to the beach…

he said there was such a difference between a knee high wave there and a knee high wave here…

without a doubt my thin longboard is the best ive ever had for performance and nose riding,

but when your on a moving knee high swell with no suck , or ankle high dribble foam then my old chunka was better…

so theres a cross over point where the volume starts to help again…but its at an extremely low speed range…

but on the short board , its short enough to keep moving side to side for speed , so you can keep it on top of the water…

but if your style dictates that you just stand on your board like a dead weight thru the flat sections or on total dribble , then thickness and width will help,

if you have plenty of movement in your shortboarding then you wont need the thickness,

silver back!!! how much tail rocker did you put in …

that can have a bearing on paddle speed and floatation…

ive got 1 1/2 in my magic carpet…but its a flat curve, where as a flat with a last minute tail flip will pull the tail down…

but i suspect it must be pretty extreme in the thinness in the tail coz i havent experienced that with mine…

finding new boundries all the time…

regards

BERT

Well, I’m not hauling around as much cargo as you guys. But, I’m 6’5" and 185 lb.s. My normal board is a 6’6" X 11-1/2" X 19-5/8" X 14-3/4" X 2-5/8" squash tail thruster single to double concave and low volume rails (dome deck). Last week I gave my everyday board to my brother to use as a baseline for my next board. So, when Saturday morning rolled around and my board was locked up in my brother’s shaping room, I broke out my Bonzer. Same dimensions, but it has much fuller rails and 5 fins. It’s not what I’d call the ideal small weak wave board. But, it was just too nice a morning to pass up. I caught half a dozen fun little shoulder high waves and the Bonzer was working it’s way through it. But, definitely not excelling. Well, a regular paddles out on a 5’11 X 23" concave deck and bottom Fish with very full volume rails. So, all of a sudden I’m switching from back foot oriented and burying the rail each turn to front foot skating with the the board flat to the wave. After paddling back out from my first wave the set of the morning came in and the crowd forced me into a deep take off. I bottom turned around the deepest paddler and snapped up into the pocket. Pretty quickly I ran out on to the shoulder and started S-ing my way into the bay. On the paddle back out, I started getting this " man that was the wave of the day. You should have stalled, that thing was boweling right over your shoulder." I slid off the back of the board and showed the tail and fins and asked how do you stall something like this? It just goes squirt if you try to weight back. I was just trying to keep the nose out and not spin out. It’s fun to switch things up occassionally. But, be prepared to rethink just about everything you do surfing these things.

Yes - the board does have a slight last minute kick (but very subtle) - the rocker is 1.5" tail 4.25" nose. I have to say, that despite paddling difficulties, the board is the best small wave board I’ve ever ridden - rode it tonight in sloppy 2 ’ - normally I’d have looked at it and turned away with the emperor, however, I had so many excellent rides - getting loads of speed and turning on a penny - sooo much fun.

tom !!!your a stick insect…ive been called lanky , and your taller and lighter than me???

i know what you mean about being prepared for different things to happen…

a few times ive had second thoughts about the magic carpet, if its over shoulder high , i have trouble with consistency and getting my timing right,

but then i will go out in total unshortboardable small puss and just blow up , then i come in saying wow i love this board…

then i get caught out , coz ive started to favour it , i will take it out in waves its not quite ment for , them im wondering whether i like it or not…

these type of dimensions are very conditition specific…

i just have to use self control and pick the right board for the day…

but coz ive had so many magic surfs and pulled grommet style manouvers on my magic carpet,ive gotten addicted to riding it …

its not a board for a 1 board person ,but definatly a must if youve got 3 or more boards in your quiver…

regards

BERT

Quote:

he said there was such a difference between a knee high wave there and a knee high wave here…

That is why I find it hard to take advice from people like say LeeDD(sorry, but I had to pick someone :slight_smile: ) because I think even the most lousy windswell in Hawaii will have so much more power than what we normally surf here… Altough the best surfers can surf any board in any conditions I don’t think the average potato chip will cut it for the average joe here in the conditions we’re having. It easilly shows in the density of fish surfboards in the lineup at the local spots, even when it get’s ‘good’.

regards,

Håvard