Engaged rail line

General Discussion
1

so its like this : the length of board and wave speed and board speed and trim choices made by rider are infinite we all can easily accept that as a premise for discussion as well as value judgement.

The fact that a given rider on a given wave has engaged the rail of the board and is fully under way as to powered up and in control validates the ride …any lagging I.E.sloppy tentative turns hop’n’ popmush outs I respectfully submit decreases the credibilitty of the expression or in otherwords becomes less than inspiring.

case in point ,many historical still photos seemingly the hottest turn of a lifetime of observing are a disapointment on viewing in motion pictures…

the engaged rail is a factor that makes the difference between stellar and common place performance.The shifting of gears in a manual transmission can be as smooth as an automatic

these rides that we can achieve that transistion from rail to rail from turn to cutback from section to section are the fruits of our training and the medium of our sense of accomplishment.

When I am confronted by an "attitude "* that purports an elevated status I must respectfully turn my head away.

If this engagement is not regularly achieved I must concur with the guys on the cliff throwing rocks yelling “you are making the waves look Ugly” or the friends at the campfire critiquing the jerky movements of an unregulated arm spasm during a bottom turn or cut back.These are the method wave riding personas that set themselves apart and are inspiring to watch…

the greatest surfeer in the world when switching equiptment can fall off the curl line lose ‘engagement’ and lose their inspiring pleasant status…the time and effort and talent required to master And engage the rail on an extraordinary board be it long or short is a talent and accomplishment worth pursuing…

All i all the fact that you can catch a wave You have taken responsibility for the last final moments of the wave as an entity. A wave as a beautiful thing

should be appreciated, meaning be made better, and not demeaned or disolved to disenchanted magic.

the surfers that can paddle out on a seemingly crappy day and find the symetry and beauty of a given wave or spot and reveal it to the spectators or other surfers are truely gifted and are worthy of respect and admiration .

otherwise the surfers that paddle out and into beautiful symetry and disrupt the flow and disuse and distort perfect surf into unmakable disgusting slop should be avoided and hopfully helped to understand the error of their ways…difficult to do with the self assured enthusiastic guy/or gal with a dominating board and attitude*.

this being said aloud may offend some

may ring of some truth to others

may be confronted by yet more

but as we progress to a higher understanding simply must be said…

The M.P motion pictures on that short board are archival examples of perfect engagements…as are the Derek Hynd 11 foot board riding in the kiddman movies short of engaging …the Hynd fish riding at jeffries are engaged…the machado long boarding in costa rica also is short of the mark as much as the tudor longboarding fulfills the Engaged criterion…ambrose…insight for spring in the northern hemisphere and the fall in the southern hemisphere

now for the left hemisphere and the right hemisphere …of the brain

*a classical dance term

2

IF YOU CANT SURF IT SMOOTHE DONT SURF IT AT ALL…

its all about transitions made in an engaging manner

…ambrose…the great FAVAD has spo - ken

…his mind…

3
Quote:

IF YOU CANT SURF IT SMOOTHE DONT SURF IT AT ALL…

its all about transitions made in an engaging manner

…ambrose…the great FAVAD has spo - ken

…his mind…

amen

4

Yup. 33 three years of trying to get that. Once in a while I do it. Mike

5

Ambrose, I ken your spo, bro. In truth, a matter of millimeters to move smoothe in the groove. For me, a rare duende experience, when the wave spirit guides me instead of my self. Maybe another hundred years will do it.

6

Attendance - verb meaning, attention, now we dance!

It depends on which crowd you are standing with, which cliff you are standing on and what crew you are observing. All waves vibrate with a pre-determined frequency that resonates in harmony or sounds a discordant note as determined by the culturally biased observer. The exact same event can be either hideous or beautiful depending on the energies that have been previously absorbed. My wife’s gong CD can transport your soul and even change cancer cells in a petri dish, but would give my eighteen year-old son a headache. Conversely, a crash cymbol pounded to death for whatever the hey music style that my son listens to gives her a headache, but it seems to fit the mosh pits unbridaled exhuberance and ritualistic body contact, til blood sightings, bonding with those in attendance. Give me the analogue sound of early Miles Davis “Blue” - brushes on drums, stand-up bass, piano and horns, you can stamp me and send me to happy town. Bliss is a re-determined dynamic state of being, wrote a book about it, but burned it on the path for warmth one snowy night, but not till after I had logged onto Swaylock’s to ask the gurus what I should do. Would you have me throw a rock at my own son cause his attitude is pivot, pivot, fly instead of whoosh, woosh, om? Let he who is without sin cast the first thruster onto the rocks. All ahead full, prepare to engage. Do we really need an aircraft carrier with a right and left submarine to define the dance or dancer, or are we arguing which tribe invented the fish, again? The thinner the membrane interface the more the rail becomes just an edge for penetration, pressure and release.

Who said the wave stops at the sand?

7

Certainly concepts of right or wrong may not apply to perspective. Does the music shape the musician, or the musician shape the music? Dancer the dance or converse? Art shape the artist or does the artist fool himself into thinking he is the creator? Is that perspective, or simply off the mark? The wave is the shaper, but as you say the grain can be sanded crosswise by choice. But is that the high road? Surely, do not throw rocks, for love of choices is unconditional if one accepts the choosers and all their choices as valid, and who is to say they are not without going against someone’s bliss? Much as I prefer not to listen to fingernails on a chalkboard, or have violence done otherwise to my eardrums or sensibilities, or see a wave distorted by aggressive discordance, one can also view the choice to go against the grain as the first faltering step toward harmony, toward the center, which will certainly hold more easily than the swirling tornado around it.

Most of the kids I work with love rap and gangster clothing. They throw rocks. They know not, but I still do not throw rocks. Living will do that soon enough.

Enjoying the peace while it lasts.

Tiktokman, still going clockwise.

8

I’ve been sampling far more slide and glide lately, surfing with my daughter and my dad. And, there is certainly a saticfaction of a long clean flowing line. But, I’ve also been out in some critical snap the turn and run it out river mouth swells lately. And, I can’t discount the adrenaline rush of being able to square off a turn and put yourself in the most critical spot makable. I agree hesitation is not pretty. But, sometimes squareing a turn might be jerky…but, functional. So, it all really comes down to having fun and spreading the aloha.

9

note the unmatched smoothness of a glossy still photo,

to emulate same is a quest unatainable

but the road to this endless end

provides a calming to syncronize

with the classical beat

of the ageing

process

let it

run

the

wave

doesn’t

end at the

sand it reflects

off the berm to create

the outbound wave and the

running current there we engage

the paddling rythm to conform with the

ocean mothers heartbeat… ambrose…this is the gong

10

simon ese !!!

11

graph

the results of memories

from point of origin self-realized

mind reflections and attractions

reaching back through generations untold

and unfolding from a spiral code electrical/chemical

earth/cosmic fulcrum point inspiring divine wisdom to

be whatever your potential state of action not crushed and

over before sprouted wings fly through cultures gauntlets that

elders have delineated like lines scratched in the sand that one

washes away and the change of tide earth spin motion blur

tick the cosmic clock ahead to see page unwritten perfect

time zone passage of particles through the hourglass

the son/sun’s energy and redirects the in and out

perfect launch aerial unbridaled response to

dynamic conditions that course through

our outbound desire and timing

flowing, ebbing, pulsating

energy not spoke

Times before Surfline - big waves were in the air pushed ahead and at us full in the face, couldn’t sleep, anticipation as deep as the water the swell was marching through. Even before early light, big breakers crashing, shallower water depth charges compress the sand. Silica starts that vibrating pre-twitch telegraphed to bed rock then pushed far inland. Pintail from under the house strapped to the racks for the pre-dawn ride to the edge of the earth. I knew it would be big cause my indicator, the alcoholic bum lying on top of his sleeping bag on the ground in the park, well, his dolphin flipper hand was carving the dream sections while lit by a moonbeam in the dark. The message he wrote in the bottle was clear, “surfs up, get your arse down there, best swell of the year!” It’s true, the only watering hole he frequented was serving scotch and whiskey and the only rails he engaged were around a bar and under the wheels of the train that got him from place to place. Nevertheless I felt the blood bond when I saw him dream surfing by the park table in the shaft of moonlight. I always tried not to yell or negate the feelings of those that were really trying, and to take off and ride one for all the kindred who were sleeping the effects of civilization off just one more (life)time…

Apologies.