Epoxy and Finboxes

General Discussion
1

Hey, I need some information about using Resin Research epoxy (slow hardener) with finboxes. Specifically Lokbox and Bahne, but any experiences with Futures or O’Fishl boxes should be helpful.

What do you mix in? DE, cabosil, chopped glass, etc?

How long does it take? Set up and leave or some other technique?

How much is absorbed by the EPS (2# EDRO)?

Anything will help. Thanks,

2

Hey Rob,

I use RR with Bahne boxes (and Edge fins). I mix in a combo of fibers/cabosil/pigment and it starts to set up pretty fast in the box (firm in *1.5 hours) and totally hard after about *5 hours. *temp depending I’m sure

I use clark blanks and it does suck/shrink a little. That is; about half-way cured, I’ll sometimes have to mix a small batch and fill small depressions around gap between the glass and the box. My problem could also be using too little resin in the box?

Best,

HerbB

3

…Herb , the problem is cause you dont “move” the box well, to set up the mix to fill all the air…

…you put the mix then the box then “push and moves” then wait then “p and m” then wait then gel…

reverb

4

Rob:

I’m using Noodle’s old mix. My RR epoxy is thickened with DE or diatomaceous earth and some pigment as needed. This is the type you buy in a 25 lb. sack at a swimming pool supply house (not the raw form used in gardens). I’ve been using the same bag for 2 years, makes great ding repair goo/filler.

This is the same filler I use in the sealer coat for my EPS blanks before glassing, white pigment added for this step too.

Tomas

5

Just chopped fiber and white pigment. I also use the fast hardener. Fill the cavity about 1/4 to 1/3 full and work the box down into it (sand the sides/bottom of the box and tape it shut first) Work it down a few times until it sits where it should and starts to cure. Wipe off any excess resin that oozes out. Pull the tape. Then leave it for a an hour or two. Then sand.

Works for me.

Eric J

6

Thanks to all who replied.

I’d also like to add what Greg Loehr emailed me:

"I mix Cab-o-sil into the resin until I get a peanut butter thickness. This

way nothing moves after it’s you set all your angles and resin doesn’t absorb

into the foam. You can do the box before or after the laminate with Lokbox. I

use Add F just like always (lam amount) so I don’t have bonding issues in

successive coats. With slow [hardener] you’ll set within a few hours. Be sure to get the

resin out of the bucket, or cup, immediately after mixing to keep exotherm

down. This way you won’t burn the blank."

7

Great tip. Thanks for passing it along too.

Saved.

8

The epoxy resin is so strong that any mil fiber, cabo isn’t necessary. The lokboxes, Future get glassed over and the same should go for FU also, the only problem I have come across is gassing around the boxes from the heat that the resin produces. But as with all specialty projects, take the time to back fill and make sure it is ready to go to the next phase

9

Thanks Jim.

I’m going through the friend network to try to get JJR’s/Lokbox’s official method of glassing in boxes with epoxy.

I’m a little concerned with the weight of the router around a fragile EPS fish tail. Either way it’s gonna be super strong.

Thanks again,