Depend where you lay it because the highest stress area, when the board flex is at the highest point of the dome deck. When top is compressed this is where buckling initiate. If it’s tensil stress no problems here but that’s bottom who compress, but because of is flatter shape strain is more spread, if it’s concave bottom max is just under rails.
A bit off topic possibly, but why do you want a board with no stringer? I just don’t see the point. Aren’t you just asking for trouble?
I completely agree with Stingray.
The stress crack follows the edge of the deck patch perfectly. A deck patch should always ‘taper’ to a point… never straight across.
I’m also a fan of stringers.
That said, it’s not an impossible fix. At some point though fixing buckles, creases and broken boards = diminishing returns. I.E. a lot of work for a basically compromised structure that is likely to fail again.
In Ray’s photo you see essentially the same mechanical stress as you see on your board… a deck patch edge that is perpendicular to the stringer creating a hinge point where the buckling occurs.
I don’t know why these boards are so expensive…there’s not much tech involved and they break easily.
Time for a new one mate that thing is rooted.
Yep.
Stringers can’t be replaced.
Wood.
50 years strong.
Thanks John,
Somewhere in the thread about Fast cars and Bad hair you will find photos of how I do a fabric inlay and a daimond patteren on snapped boards…just for fun!
http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/bottom-feeders-bad-hair-buckeled-boards-and-bad-ass-cars
It’s hard to see but if you look close you will see the diamond pattern. Then you need to find a blance between overkill and a decent weight. Rails need to be wrapped too. About 1.5 to 2 inches
…and…sometimes I do a diamond on one side and a butterfly on the other…not to mess with Lamat but to spread out all the flex stress…you know…move things around…even out all the stuff…low tech.
On a related topic:
Looking at a unidirectional carbon/glass cloth job the other day. Wonderful cross effect from the carbon lines where the bottom and top laps cross at the rail. The crossing gets less from the ends until the carbon lines run parallel on the rails at the centre of the board.
Lovely repair, Stingray.
I have no idea what you are talking about Red Board Dude Man…you guys all went High Tech and can’t seem to grasp basic concepts. It’s a diamond pattern not a diamond cloth. Or any other special materials…Dan RS did a repair that was perfect if you want your board to snap…right where the high tech cloth meets the old board…or the Low tech repair meets the high tech board…Square repair not good…I’m fixing a broken board this week, would you guys like me to start a new thread…about glassing broken boards ??? with photos
Ray
stingray, fyi it was a 2 x diamond glass over the whole repair… but it was squared off at the rear and then ground down into a diamond pattern at the rear also.
see my first post where I said I would do 2 x 6oz diamond shape glass over repair.
it also didnt snap at that end again but at the front end…
I have repaired a handful of snapped boards and they have never snapped again.
It was my first attempt at carbon/eps and I stuffed up with too much spakle causing it to delam. Lesson learnt.
this photo shows a surfboard that broke in half. The black cloth is the repair and the board snapped a second time right on the edge of the black cloth. In the future we need to prevent this problem…Hope all is well. If you and I were standing in the same room having a discussion it would all make sense…I’m really busy for the next 2 weeks but I will take photos of my current broken board project and post them on Swaylocks in the near future…Ray