Last night I taped off the long board. Today I prepped the board with clear acrylic paint. Then I mixed up a small batch of dark deep blue epoxy. I added a little Additive F to the mix. The art brush that I used shed its bristles like a big dog on a hot sprint day. The blue wasn’t deep and dark enough to cover the cut lap colors well either. I also noted that the board seemed to repel the epoxy. So I wiped the pin line clean, I washed the pinline with isopropyl alcohol, I trimmed a foam brush back and mixed up a batch of black pigmented epoxy.
The foam brush worked fine but the board seemed to repel the epoxy. So again I wiped the board clean. I read that first coating the pin line with acrylic pain was a good way to prevent the pin line from creeping under the masking tape.
Looks like the paint is contaminating the resin and keeps it from sticking. If your applying the pinlines on top of the hotcoat there should be no need for the spray acrylic. The only time I have sprayed anything (future floor wax) prior to putting a pinline down was directly on the foam in order to keep the paint from running under the tape.
Can’t tell from your picture but it looks like you are trying to apply the pinline directly on the laminate without a hotcoat. That could be tough considering the roughness of the surface.
Suggest that you clean off/sand off the pinline and start over. If you have not hotcoated, then do so, then sand, tape off pinline, press tape down hard, press tape down hard again and then apply pinline. Rough up the pinline a bit with some 320 sandpaper prior to glossing.
The pine line is really wide to cover a leak at the cut lap. The board does have a hot coat. I’ve taped off the entire board. I sanded the hot coat with 120. I sanded the cut lap with 220 and then 320.
I had the same thing happen, only it was the glosscoat on all of the deck.
I had done pinlines using paint pens and then, figuring I needed to seal them I sprayed them with a clear acrylic. If you can imagine that over the whole deck of a board? Lots of sanding!
Did a few tests afterwards and epoxy doesn’t like anything that isn’t water based acrylic, such as a future/water mix.
I have also tested the paint pen pinlines without any sealer, and it works fine.
edit If you are doing a glosscoat, there really is no need to spray anything before pinlining. I personally like using artists acrylic for my pinlines and glossing afterwards. I am going to be using acrylic from an airbrush as well, just so I can play with it a bit. (fades and stuff)
I think you used the wrong paint. Even though the spray says acrylic, some acrylic “fast dry” paints are solvent based. You need to use water-based acrylic if possible. Also, if the spray drys glossy, that’s not good. Even with water-based paints, you want a flat finish prior to appying resin over it. If the paint drys glossy, you can rough it up with 400 grit sandpaper before resin. I’ve glossed over water-based acrylics with epoxy without problems, but I’ve always had problems if the paint was glossy.
You can add Aervoe spray acrylic to the ‘epoxy repellent’ list. The only solvent based clear that I have not had repel epoxy is Krylon Crystal Clear.
I now use Future to seal india ink lettering, and for paint on the hotcoat I changed my technique so I won’t have to seal it with clear. I thin my acrylic paints (cheap craft paint 2oz jars) 1 part paint, 1 part Future, 1 part water. When I spray, the first coats are dry ‘mist’ coats, takes about 3 coats to actually start to hide the stuff underneath. The mist coats help seal the tape line, I hit each coat with a heatgun until it no longer appears ‘wet’. The following coats are a little more wet, until sufficient hide is acheived, and the last coat is wet enough to leave a semi-gloss finish after the heat gun. After cure (which takes a while, when you can’t smell the Future anymore, you’re there), the hard finish left by the final coat keeps the paint from smearing around during glossing…no clear coat necessary. I scuff the paint a little before gloss with a scotchbrite pad (the green scrubbie deal on a dish sponge) as I’m washing the board to clean it before gloss (I find it hard to do detailed masking with gloves on).
The Guys are right, about the acrylic, needs to be water based. I use only use futures and apply it with a brush or a gloves finger. If I ever use coloured acrylic from a can or paint pens I seal them with a layer of water based acrylic over the top. takes a little extra drying time but saves any nasty suprises.
I’ve done epoxy pin lines before, I wouldn’t bother with the acrylic, only of pens.
leave the mixed epoxy in the cup to heat up for 5 mins then brush it on as it starts to get thicker. pull the tape imidiately. if you get any runs go round with a scaple and scratch them off once its cured.
liquatex acrylic paint from the tube or paint bens will also work but seal with futures once fully dry.
I wiped up the epoxy long before it set so the board still looks pretty clean. I just need to sand the Polyacrylic off.
The pattern that I want to put on the nose is a little complex. I was thinking that it might be easier to lay down a big sheet of contact paper over the nose. Then trace out the pattern on the nose. Then clamp to razor blades together. Retrace the pattern with the dual razor blades. Then peel up the thin strip that the blades cut.
That process should result in very uniform line width and allow fairly complex design. My concern would be bleed through the contact paper. If however I use a water based acrylic that might not be an issue.
The double razorblade idea works, (I’ve tried it) but it’s only as good as the steadiness of your hand. Regarding contact paper: I think you’ll have better luck with a wide masking tape: 3" works. Some of the cheaper brands are fairly thin and they work great for taping off larger areas. I’ve done it many times. It will conform to the curve of the board better than contact paper, and you can press down the edges well for fewer bleed-through’s.
I used to have friends in the leaded glass business, and they would get masking tape that was 12" wide. It was for cutting designs just like you are planning to do. With a little research I’ll bet you could find the stuff.
OK, tape has been pulled and the polycyclic sanded off. I re-taped the cut lap. At the nose I laid out row after row of 1 inch tape. I measured and drew the nose art over the tape.
Then I put two razorblades together. I used washers to increase the space a little and to provide stability between the blades. I tape the back half of the assembly to provide a measure of protection and to hold it all together. Tracing the pattern with the razor blades was pretty easy. The double razor blade tool was a little unbalance. I had to go over one of the two razor blade traces.
I put down the pin line epoxy this afternoon. The results are again a mixed bag. I thought that I had understood that if you were using epoxy resin then you didn’t need to put down a clear precoat. The epoxy bled through the tape.
After the epoxy cures-hard I think I can clean the bleed through up with a razor blade. It will be a lot scratching but I think that’s where I’m going.
The deck
The design
The bleed through at the tape seems was predicatable. I should be able to clean this up with a razor blade.
Here’s the board after a cleaning up with a razor blade. It took maybe 4 hours to do the clean up.
I used plastic tea spoons to measure the epoxy that I used. The pin line epoxy is still a little soft. I must have gone a little light on the catalyst. The fat pin line needs a little sanding. I’ll have wait a bit until the epoxy firms up a little.
Before I can put on the gloss coat I’ll have to wait for a relatively warm Ohio January day. I can get good working temperatures in the garage with the kerosene heater when the out side temps are around 40 F. We haven’t seen that in a while.
Pinlines bleed because of a few things. But the most prevelent is not burnishing the tape down well enough, and using poor quality tape. I see you elected to mask your entire board with tape instead of outlining the design with tape. Every spot where the tape overlaps each other will causes a little void where the resin, epoxy or paint to seep under. Best bet is to lay the tape down in one continuous strip, then rub the hell out of the tape with your hand to heat the glue and bond it well to the board, then run your fingernail, popcicle stick, or back edge of the razor blade to flatten out the little crepe ridges of the tape to the board. Do this and no seep…ever, ever, ever. Use 3M 233, or 3M Fineline series, or 3M pineline tape in 1/16, 1/8, 1/4. Anyother brand will only cause grief. If you go to an automotive paintshop they will set you right the first time…They know about laying pinlines that don’t bleed.
Also if you pull the tape too soon, the down hill edge will sag, seep, slag, and run. Pull the tape with epoxy well into the peanut butter stage, but pull the tape at an extreme angle towards you, so you don’t get those spider web stringers of epoxy.
Also if you coat over the pinlines too soon, this too will make the pinelines bleed. But this type of bleed is more of a smear, than a fuzzy edge.
Also if you use paint use acrylux tube paint, or Delta Acrylic, or something on those lines (and like Carl said, use flat) just apply it with a razor blade, do use anything in an rattle can (it’s just best to stay away from it) If you need to do a large area, of fade, get a sprayer and mix your own water based paint…Get your water based paint from a hobby store…not the Home depot. Also don’t thin your paint with Future or any other type of acrylic. The only time this is appropriate is when it’s on foam. Acrylic thinner/ paint mix with resin or epoxy over it will leave a rubbery mess that never hardens properly.
Consider yourself lucky that it was just pinlines and not a full deck fade.