Epoxy resin ding repair / tune-up - how I roll

Monkstar - we must be brothers from a different mother!  Too funny.

GregTate - I cut the delam out, buttered it up, and glued in back in place.  I used a diamond blade on a 4" grinder cuz thats what I had handy.

https://youtu.be/UhGkP6ebjpE

The first pic is the little ding that I thought was my only repair - haven’t even gotten to it yet!  This board is an old daily driver from a few years back, and I still like it a lot.  I once loaned it out to a fellow swaylockian for a whole year, but eventually it came back home.

The de-lam was  kinda weird, after I fixed it I got a tiny bubble in the middle, had to cut that open and glue (resin) it back down.  Don’t know the cause.

Because the board is a favorite, and in good shape, I filled the few pressure dings on the deck it had, and will sand / recoat with a thin coat of resin once I’m done.

I dunno bout you guys, but once I get a few really good waves on a board, it has a place in my heart forever, lol!





“I once worked at a fire hydrant factory. Couldn’t park anywhere near the place”. 

                                                                         Stephen Wright.

“I bought some batteries. They weren’t included.”  Same guy.

Thanks Huck - I’ll have to give it a try.

Perhaps an oscillating palm sander, on the board’s underside, with no sandpaper, before epoxy begins to thicken, will get that orange peel to lay down and even out , and require less sanding.

Doing some remedial work on this wood board…

Huck, thanks for the videos. Is that a fill coat or cheater coat?

Its really not either, because technically those are part of the glassing process,  and this board was glassed long ago. Its just part of some remedial work necessitated by some movement in the wood.

But it really doesn’t matter, either, as far as the process shown, which would be essentially the same.

If I made a video like this, you’d see me running around trying to stop the orange peel, then finally giving up.

You just weren’t paying attention, that IS what I’m doing in the video!

Huck, when you do this as a final coat on a new board/freshly sanded hotcoat what is the last grit you hit the hotcoat with before doing the roller coat? Just curious as to how the roller coat is about filling in scratches on the sanded hotcoat. 

 

120 - 150

Huck I think this roller coat may end up saving me thousands of dollars in Epoxy here in expensive New Zealand over the next 25 years! thank you fine sir. 

In my past experiments with foam rollers I’ve had problems getting the resin evenly distributed with the roller before the resin would start eating the foam, and I’d still get some fisheyes.  I don’t use the real fast hardeners.   I just tried it again with Huck’s technique except this time I spread the resin out with a spreader first to get the even distribution, then using the roller.   That worked pretty well.  Well enough that I was able to sand the board by hand with a sanding block and 120#.  

Huck are you usinf foam rollers? Where do you get them? They are sort of pricey at lowes.

When you buy the 10 pack, they are about $1.25 each at my local Lowes.

Thanks for the tips Huck. Going to try this today after my Lowes run.  

I have used Cotton Rollers for years.  Primarily for tucking the rails and rewetting dry spots etc.  I do not use foam rollers because they leave air pockets and sometimes they disenigrate.  I use three inch white cottton rollers.  If any fibers come off the roller you never see them because they are cotton.  When I did a lot of UV at the “Chicken Ranch” in Los Berros, I left one in a pot of UV all the time with a towel over it.  I use them with Epoxy,Poly and UV.  I first started on this when I saw rollers at the old Fiberglass Hawaii in Santa Barbara.  Wade told me that some guys used them and boat guys used them.  It is super easy to wet out a rail and tuck it with a Cotton Roller.  When I use these I never get air bubbles or dry spots along the rail, nose and tail.  I prefer straight white, but I have used the ones with the blue stripe.  No color bleed from the stripe.  I usually just throw them away, but they can be rinsed in Acetone.  I do not use them on the flats.  Flats get a Thalco Blue Squeegee of the type that can’t be bought.  I can lam a board with a Thalco and a plastic squeegee, but have better luck with a roll on the rails.  Easy to put down your lam/logos with a roller as well.  Lowel

Cutting out the delam  and gluing it back down is almost always the best way to deal with a delam.  4 or 6 over it and you are usually good to go.

Did two filler coats today Huck. Your technique worked well and so little mess. Thanks