You guys have been such a help, so I got another question. How well does Epoxy resin work on a standard Poly blank? Is there anything you need to do different to the the blank? Does it have more of a chance of delaminating than on an EPS blank? And what about airbrushes with the Epoxy resin, does that lean to more delaminations? I ask because I’ve heard that there can be a problem with EPS/Epoxy delaminations (at least for backyard builders, the big guys don’t have a problem). I know its a lot of questions, thanks for the time.
There is no problem if you laminate the epoxy way.
And there is no need to seal the blank, just laminate it.
PS: there is in fact no such thing as a poly(ester)-blank, it is a polyurethane blank (or PU-blank)
don’t do it!!!
the resin will react with the foam in such a way as to create a plastic explosive. the board will come out lookin’ great…but on your first wipeout…KABOOOOOOMMMMMMMM!!!
and i hope you aren’t thinking about putting wax on your board!..that’ll make it go nuclear!!! (or “nukular”, to the Texans).
Feels nice and is stronger and lighter.
You must be kidding?
I glass my PU’s from time to time with Epoxy RR with no problems whatsoever?
The boards are lighter and stronger. It just cost more to glass them compared to polyester.
I believe you get a better product with Epoxy.
There are a few Pros on the WCT that have all their PU’s glassed in Epoxy.
So, no worries about about delaming? And what about airbrushing on the blank, no worries with the Epoxy resin? Thanks for the replys so far.
seen it done all the time
go for it
Some PU foam gets a softening reaction from epoxy, so it is best to be sure. Ask the manufacturer, or do comparative sample tests, (2"X 2" glass is fine). Test the epoxy on an off cut, or on another like blank, preferably do a polyester lay-up for comparison.
Just go for it!
So far:
US, King Mac Epoxy no problem.
I will do a Just Foam and a Surfblanks America as well.
Airbrush no issues. I had a MDI shrink on me with Epoxy.
So far with TDI no problems.
Why play it safe when guys with nothing to lose are saying, “GO!”, “Don’t worry about it”, and,“Just do it”? Read Surfdings post carefully, (the shrinkage part). Why do you think Resin Research is coming out with a special PU formula?
I just finished an Ice9 with the new RR CE epoxy. I’ve heard and seen the problems with the shrinkage. Although I think it was more the blanks earlier formula rather than the resin. They say they have gotten the bugs worked out. If this one doesn’t shrink or act weird I might be switching to their foam. Shaping the pu was like a dream.
I’ll post pictures on my other thread once I get to it. This one was by far my best one yet. Something about the combo of their blank and the CE resin was pretty effortless. Having the blank absorb a small amount of the resin made the lamination super tight and clean.
I’ve done a few US Blanks (PU) with Fiberglass Hawaii Aluzine epoxy, with no problems.
Paint on PU lammed with epoxy is fine. Just use acrylic, water-based paint. We’ve even used a roller to get the paint on and they come out fine, if that’s the look you’re shooting for.
Check into a UV absorber to put in as an additive, or get ahold of some of Greg’s new resin with it already in, as UV can pass through epoxy and deteriorate foam over long periods of time in the sun. Even paint can add some protection.
Has anyone painted a poly blank RED and glassed it with Resin Research Epoxy resin? I have a US blank sitting here and the guy wants me to paint it red. I was told it will not crystalize if I use epoxy resin.
Thanks
Ray
Post cure the board for 3 or 4 hours at 115 degree. Then keep it from overheating. A closed board bag in direct sun is a bad idea, as is leaving the board in closed car in summer or uncovered on a hot day for extended periods. Get it too hot and pay the price. I’ve seen it happen all too often. Attend to exposure to extreme heat and you’ll have no problems. For me when it comes to epoxy lamination it’s EPS only.
No Worries, Rich
I’ve never had it happen to me with any color paint under epoxy resin. Just make sure the paint is completely dry before you lam.
Mahalo Halcyon,
I read that the Ice9 blanks are post cured at 120. Anything higher might lead to problems. I do my eps ones at 130 for 6 hours and you can really tell the difference to the non cured ones.
I’ll take your advice and try to do a mini-cure.
I can see how having a good oven is well worth it. I saw a little video clip about the Brazilian Keahana glassing system by Rashe at M10. He had a pretty simple hot box made with a base board heater and some sheet eps.
How are you post curing it?