http://www.kayakforum.com/cgi-bin/Building/index.cgi/noframes/read/153343Not sure if this link will interest anyone. . It suggests using a fridge magnet for a squeegee.
Anything (Clean) goes for squeegees…
I’ll regularly have three for different applications, soft being for not squeezing the *&%$ out of a lam and hard for squeezing the *&96$ out of a lam.
Grab a few grades of PVC and have a go!
Josh
Hey josh,
What kinds of situations would you use the hard vs soft squeegees in? In other words, when do you want to leave a wetter vs drier lam?
JSS
…many years ago I glassed about 50 boards (flat + v bottoms and clear lam) with a glazed tile; the ones that you put in the edges (that have 1 rounded edge)
if you know what you need to do, there s no problem
I think you’re referring to a “Bull-nose” tile.
But I have to re-iterate Max’s question. When and Why would you use each technique.
In my limited experience, a really dry lam is asking for air under the glass. Isn’t there a “just right” pressure that gives you the best strength to weight ratio w/o unsightly air?
…yes, those tiles (the smooth ones)
the basic technique tip is not leave resin “lagoons” or a super dry cloth that in a couple of hours you ve got tiny bubbles all around
-if you have dark colors use more resin, let saturate then light pressure then “medium” (I do this pass in “infinite signs” to avoid the air) pressure then more resin and then firmly pass from the stringer to the rails
-if you do that in the deck, let the resin saturate all the rail by itself, do the light, medium and “firmly”; after that , more resin and push firmly the top of the rails (from WP to nose and tail) then push the laps to the other side
Well Max,
If I want a nice pinhole-free outer lam, I’d use a soft one…
Very light composite inner glass, a little harder.
Other secret Sunova applications…not telling!
Josh