i know now how difficult it can be, to add color to the board:)
Resinhead could you give me an advice when to spray some paints on the board? after the glassing before coating or after coating?
this paint looks very cool
Kensurf, Resinhead and all the other Resinpros i have a problem:)
The glassingjob is done, but the blue color have made a lot of trouble. May be anyone have an explanation? in advance i havent used the spackle, because some guys had delam problems with these typ of spackle! For the next time I had to order some tubes of DAP from the USA.
I dont understand this, the red-color came out very nice only the blue made some trouble...
The results:
chris
ether the blue wasnt mixed well enough or there are two layers of glass and the underneath layer didnt get saturated or the resin drained off the cloth befor yo got it laped under the board
last guess would be that it sucked into the foam but it didnt do it on the red (pink) so it probly wasnt that
looks to me that the blue wasnt mixed well enough
can we see the whole bottom? pic
Hi Ken, sure you will get the pic today! Is the chronology crucial? I have mixed up first the resin with the hardener than i put the pigmnents into the mixed resin?
I have seen a guy here, in another thread, he had the same problem with the blue color, here is a pic.
i have also heard that mixing white pigments to the blue can be the solution?
Resinhead told you what to do.....Now you have a problem......
Go back and read your own thread....Sorry pal , you were warned..........you did not follow the rules.....
I could save that color job but not today.......Oh my.......
Sorry Stingray but i must contradict you
1. I cant use DAP because i cant buy it here in Europe
2. I glassed the board without spackling so i accepted the little poc marks "freckles"...its ok because the board is for my own use....
3. The red color came out very nice without spackling sure it has some freckles, but the blue color look like an resin.swirl or something. You dont see just freckles, the bottom has big dark and lighter places!
Greetz
@Kensurf: i will take a picture later from the bottom, because i have glassed a clear layer on the deck today,so i have to wait till its dry
But i have taken a new pic from the deck, with an higher resolution
I figure that since I already know the color will not be as even as with a pu blank I’ll use that imperfection as part of the design.
We cant see your pics:)
The best color for epoxy is clear, that was mentioned. Clear is a must for an individual starting to working with epoxy. You get the most problems with epoxy on the rails. People tend to over work the epoxy on the rails. Over working the epoxy tends to froth up the epoxy. Frothing the epoxy will make it lighter due to the millions of tiny bubbles. The only way to get around frothing is to under work the epoxy....so we have a tranvexing dikotomie of skiil here? How to work the epoxy just right...that takes trial and error, and laminating boards. You have all that going on, plus uneven presure in the turn, plus under saturation of the rail cloth...So I go back to the beginning of the paragraph about clear boards..... All in all it looks like what expected, what did you expect?
Spackle is not you problem here. The pock marks don't even show up in a photo. Spackle is used for that close up personal inspection that a customer is looking for when he grabs the board off the rack. I can see your "opportunities" from 10 feet back, and the grain of 20mb pix Swaylocks demands.
Next...Dark color are the most difficult even with poly resin, tints are especially hard. Dark blue, purple are the worst...then red. The easiest are Yellow, Orange, Green....But tints are difficult. Opaques are easier. You have seemed to gone after one of the Holy grail of colors...with epoxy. I give you an "A" for having Balls kid.
So...What happened? You are a pretty good glasser but as mentioned blue is difficult, you need to use even presure with the spreader. But using a bondo spreader with epoxy is a much stiffer proposition to moving the epoxy around, combine that with the rails and your a candidate for the "uneven presure with the bondo spreader award", combine that with froth and you have a blothy Blu tinted rail....this would have happened if you did poly too. Let me guess here...your bottom has a darker streak down the center of the board where the concave used to be? And a lighter spot on the hump between the fins... And there are darker spots where you poured the resin on the boards and let it saturate a bit longer before moving the epoxy around. I'd bet that those spots where you let the epoxy sit longer and a bit more saturated look good?
How to get around it? Epoxy take a long time to saturate cloth...it's thick, get it all over the cloth, and let it sit 5 minutes or so...next time go grab a beer of something. Also, next time use more color. if your going after color don't be a puss about it, scoop the shit in.. make it more opaque. Use more epoxy, once again let it saturate and most importantly "Get the rails real wet before turning.....use a paint brush or you hand to wet out the lap...just dont let it water fall like poly.... Also don't pull frothy epoxy over and on too the rails....pull the frothy stuff off the board and into the trash can
We never told you spackle was the fix all to epoxy board, just that spackle helped cosmetically. Just think of what it would have looked like without it? There's a reason 99.9% of epoxy boards are white. And most color you see are spray painted after.
I personally never put any color on the rails...I leave them clear. Or if I do I opaque the hell out of them.
THX for your fast and detailed informations! I have saved all informations in my brain:)
THX Sway for consolidate these professional shapers, what would i do without Resinhead, Kensurf, Balsa, Surfding.....
I go down in my cellar and cut the lap, after that you will get some pics from my bottom.