When You’re sawing the blank in half after the hotwiring it doesn’t have to be a perfect cut IF the two outer sides of Your blank are straight (they usually are aren’t they?)
Just shift the pieces around so Your straight outer sides glue together against the stringer.
I've been thinking about this glue question for a while and I was wondering why do you need to use a really strong glue for eps? If you are gluing 2 pces of eps or eps to wood it's the eps thats going to fail before the glue isn't it?
I am just a beginner with surfboard building but I’ve done a bit of woodwork and just standard PVA wood glue seams to work fine. When I broke up some pieces I had previously glued it’s the wood that breaks apart not the glue. So wouldn’t this be sufficiant for EPS. When the board gets wrapped in glass doesn’t this hold it all together anyway?
If I am wrong in any of these usumptions can someone let me know before I stuff something up.
That’s right. General principle of construction is that any glue stronger than material x, which can bond to it, is fine to use. The devil is in the details Which means you don’t want a glue which will dissolve or melt your material, ios a mechanical bond OK with your material (in this case it is), etc. Address those and you start looking at other factors like cost, ease of application, drying/curing time, etc.
You can glue together blanks with regular glue but since in cures in air it takes a long time to dry out properly. With GG its mosture cured so it goes better. Additionally, it machines really nice. I’ve heard of good results using super 77 spray adhessive. In composites theres lots of options.
When You’re sawing the blank in half after the hotwiring it doesn’t have to be a perfect cut IF the two outer sides of Your blank are straight (they usually are aren’t they?)
They’re supposed to be, but I wouldn’t count on it. I’ve had some mixed luck with it, good idea to check with a straight edge first.
well, ados spray is a piece of wees to use and the absolute quickest way to glue anything,and i use it for cheap sanding disks as well
just glue em on to the sander base.you know how the velcro always wears out.
also velcro disks are pretty expensive .so i save huge dollars there.
the disks are pretty hard to pull off though.
ive never had to hotwire these glues but i imagine the GG would be the best for that.
i use adhesive technologies 5 min epoxy and that stuff is unreal glue it basically sets as you are holding the peice together or whatever, and can hold a fair bit of tension after 4 to 5 mins.
.today i soaked a piece of 2 oz cloth in it stuck it on a ding and went surfing 1/2 an hour later. beat that poly guys.
ideal for trips to bali or whatnot.
um liquid nails was a bit sketchy though cuz its heavy
smp and gorilla glue bond quite well to roughed up EPP
but theres a better glue out there made by 3m .,when i can get some, ill deffinately seriously start playing with other foams
Is that their F2 spray? I am thinking that ADOS, etc should be pretty quick and easy to hotwire. Especially when applied with a spray (being such a thin coat). Haven’t spotted ADOS on the shelves here, but any spray adhesive sutiable for photographic use (i.e., solvent free) should be pretty similar.
I use the 5min stuff a fair bit for odd repairs around the house and always figure it’d be cool for quick epoxy board repairs.
Which 3M spray did you have in mind? I have looked into their Photo Mount Spray Adhesive 6094 for general use with compsand and have considered getting a can of their Polystyrene Foam Insulation 78 Spray Adhesive if I ever come across it at the right price, just for EPS joining - dunno how it would cut tho.
I can imagine Liquid Nails might be a bit on the heavy side! hehe!
I just used a table saw to cut it and it worked fine. I used Elmers wood glue on my first two to glue the stringer but I think epoxy would be better. The wood glue took forever to dry.