I got two EPS blanks with cracked off noses for free. I’m going to shape them just for practice, but wondering if there is anyway to be able to use them fully glassed and to surf. I could glue the noses back on and then hot-wire them and glue in new stringers. But is it worth all that effort? Or any other suggestions?
Thanks
FREE! YOU GOT IT FOR FREE! iT MUST BE GOOD!
Yes, it’s worth it.
Pu glue the noses back on using splints on both sides of the stringer, shape 'em, glass and send us pictures!
Les
ps - pic of board I broke in 2 places and patched. Only redwood rail stringers but it’s still glued, rail stringers patched then (balsa) glassed.
UPS destoyed them in shipping and paid full amount back and shipping costs. So I got to keep them for nothin. How long should the splints be?
I patched another guys board that he broke in half. I had some wood blinds that I was about to throw out and thought(?!) I’ll use this! The wood was 1/8" thick and about 3" wide. I cut them about 3-4" beyond the break. There’s a post in here that someone showed in PIC’ers(!) about how he patched his board and I used that.
Just cut with a saw along each side of the stringer and slide the patch wood in parallel to the stringer. After the pu glue dries plane the patch wood to match the stringers height and glass!
Make sure you hold the pieces together real tight (tape? on a form to keep rocker and piece alignment) so pu glue doesn’t push them askew.
Les
I think I might have seen those picts. I’ll try to find them. Thanks!
Here’s the link to the Neira broken board thread
http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=227023
I have repaired 3 snapped boards, and just completed the last using this method. It was the fastest, easiest and best looking of the lot.
Matt
Hola 3xRick,
I think these 2 blanks are perfectly useful for shaping. You just need to join them in one piece.
Being snapped at such short distance from the nose, I guess just glueing them using PU expanding glue, then sanding flush, will be enough for shaping and glassing them.
If you’re afraid about strength, you can do this, using 2 wood panels or just 1 wood panel for aligning:
Of course, forget the last pic (glassing over).
Cut the slots tight to the wood panel(s) and glue the wood panel and the EPS parts using PU expandable glue.
This glue is the same they used to glue the stringer, and should be easy to shape/sand.
if that’s the packaging the blanks came in judging from your flickr pics…it’s not really UPS’ fault. that looks like a very POOR job of packaging on the part of whoever sent you the blanks. if that’s all they packaged them in and left sides exposed like that, i’d find a new blank source. and those don’t even look all that great considering the stringer is nothing more than a glue line judging from the photos as well. just my opinions though. good luck either way! hope it all works out.
Yeah, I was surprised by the packaging too but the supplier said that’s how they ship since the side 3"+ inches are getting cut off anyway. Makes sense I guess. I’m going to ask to pack better though on the next round. Cause those got wrecked. The stringers are in there, they just used alot of glue. Figure it’s in there nice and tight.
Somebody put in some time making the 3D render. Very helpfull though. Thanks
With EPS, you won’t need splints. Just use foaming polyurethane glue (Gorilla, Roo, Elmer’s Ultimate, etc.) and make sure you tape the pieces firmly together so the gule doesn’t expand the joint apart. The foaming penetrates into the spaces between the beads and makes very nice joints. I make longboard blanks out of 8’ + 2’ pieces all the time. And those glue joints are perfectly flat - a rough, broken joint line would glue even stronger.
And foaming pu glue hotwires fine and shapes easy.
Thanks. Glue sounds ALOT easier and strong. Other people saying the same. Was dreading doing the splint thing.
With EPS, you won't need splints. Just use foaming polyurethane glue (Gorilla, Roo, Elmer's Ultimate, etc.) and make sure you tape the pieces firmly together so the gule doesn't expand the joint apart. The foaming penetrates into the spaces between the beads and makes very nice joints. I make longboard blanks out of 8' + 2' pieces all the time. And those glue joints are perfectly flat - a rough, broken joint line would glue even stronger.And foaming pu glue hotwires fine and shapes easy.
Went to the store to check out PU glue. Found Gorilla and Ultimate Elemers. Also, what about that PU foaming stuff used to fill holes around plumbing and things in your house for insulation or sealing? Looks like that was used to glue in my stringers. thanks…
No, the expanding stuff foams too much. And turns very brown with UV exposure.
The Elmer’s Ultimate dries lighter (pale yellow, not orange) and is cheaper than Gorilla. It too will foam out a bit as it expands and its likely that’s what you see around your stringers.
No, the expanding stuff foams too much. And turns very brown with UV exposure.The Elmer’s Ultimate dries lighter (pale yellow, not orange) and is cheaper than Gorilla. It too will foam out a bit as it expands and its likely that’s what you see around your stringers.
Thanks Benny. I was told the stringers are glued with Enerfoam from Dow. Similiar to the cheap foaming stuff. I saw Elmer’s Ultimate for the first time yesterday at the store, and it seems easier to use and cleaner. I’ve used the foaming stuff before around the house and it’s like it explodes out of the can. Bit scary.
Blank supplier is saying just to use this stuff. (http://greatstuff.dow.com/greatstuff/cons/choosing.htm) I’m not really worried about any visual lines or discoloration, I plan on painting the board opaque. Anyone use this foam spray for mending EPS?
It would probably work fine. But you’re not really going to have gaps, you’re just gluing a rough line.
The other problem with Great Stuff is that once you open a can, you have to use it all or throw the rest away. That kind of waste gets old, to me.
It is good for filling big holes or really rough breaks where some meterial is lost from the crack. The boardlady site has some good applications…
Makes sense.
Probably use Great Stuff for filling some holes like this: http://static.flickr.com/45/145054247_092b903723.jpg?v=0
What about partial cracks like this:http://static.flickr.com/45/145054334_369857e7f9.jpg?v=0 Foam or Ultimate Elmers?
Thanks again!
I have tried spray foam and it feels like 1/2 lb foam when sanded way too soft . Tap Plastics and FH carries two part pour foam use very small batches and get at least 4lb foam if you are going to sand it. Elmers PU glue bonded best with foam in my glue tests. If you have a big hole cut it square and glue some foam in with PU glue.
Have fun Ian
Thanks everyone for the help. Worked out great.
