1lb eps foam. Ive spackled and sanded but there are some still some minor iperfections in the spackle. (ie. not as smoothe of finish as spackleing a wall.) How smooth of a does it have to be? Will a tinted resin hide it better than a clear resin? I would like to keep the stinger visible but not if the rest looks like crap. I have read that some people choose not to spackle/seal the eps - what does that looke like through a clear glass job? Does any one have any pictures?
Second Question: I’m going to use system three resin and on the container it says it cures in 8 hrs at 75 degrees. Does any one have any idea how long it will take to be able to flip the board and cut the laps and glass the other side (I’m assuming a lot less than 8 hrs)?
This is just one man’s opinion, but I have tried to make the stingray “perfect”. But at this point I am stressing over stupid little details and taking tons of time to get the slightest imperfection out…but the damn board isn’t being surfed, and it’s killing me!!!
I’ve gone too far down the road of perfection to turn back now so I am gonna make it perfect. BUT, it probably won’t ride any better, and no ones gonna stick there nose on the thing when checking it out.
In retrosect I shoulda just knocked it out to “prove/test” the design. Learning how/why something rides is far more significant to a new shaper than how it looks. At least IMHO!
Well, if youre using 1 LB Eps…you might want to go to fiberglasssupply.com and order some Dcell PVC foam and use it as a shell…if you dont do that the foam is very soft and flexxy…you will need to use ALOT of fiberglass just to make it surfable. When using spacle you might want to try to thin it out a little by simply adding water, you should tape the stringer with some masking tape if you want it to remain visible. Just lay it down and take a straight edge along the edge of the stringer to cut, you can create a little “groove” at the edges of the stringer which you can fill with resin to give it added strength and stiffness at the stringer. If you just want to shape EPS then spackle and glass you should go with the 2 lb density…Hope this helps
Yea stingray i know what you mean my board im working on now is taking me too long…it’s my baby so I want it to be perfect, but hey, its still a surfboard…
1# never looks all that good when finished, just the nature of the beast. Spackle helps a lot and double coating with it will help even more. Turbo’s right about thinning it out. That’s a must. You want it to spread easy… like mayo or even a bit thinner. An opaque color will cover all… if your doing tints on 1#, good luck. Maybe yellow.
Basic glass schedule for 1# is double 6 bottom and triple 6 deck. I’ve built with and without stringers at that weight and both were fine.
If your using systems 3, I hope it’s the SB-112. If not get some other resin. The original S-3 isn’t for boards. Yellows bad and is too low modulus. The SB-112 speed is about like our RR slow hardener. At 75º you can expect to wait 5-6 hours before trimming. At 85º that time will be half or at 65º it will be about double. That will give you an idea of your timing.
Greg: How do you usually finish a eps epoxy board? Should I use an opaqe white lam / hot coat then paint before glossing it? I’ve spent a lot of time making this board and would like to make it look the best I can.
I appologize for these questions it just this is the only place I can get info on building boards. I live in northern ontario, Canada and don’t even know anyone with a surfboard… thank god for homedepot and swaylocks!!
I just finished shaping the bottom of my board with 1 lb eps and I was happy with how it turned out, but I wouldn’t have wanted it to be the part of the board that everybody sees. At least with the 1 lb stuff I think skinning it is the way to go.
Breid check my post to see how does a #1 eps board looks like, i’ve just sealed it with water based paint and laminated with lightblue/blue tinted epoxy.
In retrosect I shoulda just knocked it out to “prove/test” the design. Learning how/why something rides is far more significant to a new shaper than how it looks. At least IMHO!
then , for your sake [and ours !!] …
put the fins on the thing , wax it , and paddle it out … TOMORROW !!! AND THAT’S AN ORDER , GARY!
Doing it clear will be easier and look fine. Epoxy resins are clearer than polys and don’t show in the little divots in the blank. White opaque is fine with paint on the outside… I’ve done some of these over the years. If your doing white opaque, or any other solid opaque color laminate the bottom first, just free lapped. Then sand your laps like normal, and do the first deck layer just to the edge with your opaque resin. After that kicks, sand the edge and then do a regular lapped clear over top with labels. This is the best way I know of getting a solid opaque that has a real professional look. Your paint can then go on the outside after the hot coat is sanded. This is a nice look.
greg,i have heard about you for years,being a early 70’s surfer from va.beach,always been interested in r&d since i was a kid watching Bob White shape in his fledgling WRV shop,didn’t he have some wild experimental teardrop shapes!!!several years ago i started surfing in indialantic and saw a forstall shape,the first thing that came into my mind was Bob early 70’s!I had to get one so i met with him,and i’ll tell you what i will never ride a polyester board again,he is one great shaper and great person.little did i know that you where right next door to him,and still shaping,maybe i’ll get you shape my next board,take care and will stop by next month when i come get my forstall shape.
