I plan on doing some color work on the bottom of a mini LB. I am thinking that I want a strong glass job because this will be a loaner board for when friends want to surf etc. i am using Kwik Kick epoxy and a few colors on the bottom. What do you think about a 6/4 bottom glass schedule and a 6/6 top with a 4 patch? It’s a 2# EPS Marko blank.
Also, if 2 layers of cloth are good for the bottom. Should I do the resin colors on one layer and then lam the other layer over the top with clear resin after the first kicks off, staggering the lap on the rails?
that is a decent glassing schedule but if you want the board to last then i would do a 6/6 oz bottom and a 6/6/6/ oz top, that will be nice and strong
i know a local shaper around here that does his eps boards like that and they hold up really well and there still alittle bit lighter than a pu/pe boards
and for the bottom i would just do both layers at one time with the color
Your glassing schedule sounds good to me. But I wouldn’t do the two layers on the bottom separately. Do them both at once. Cut the bottom layer along the rail, the top layer overlapping. If you are using multiple colors, which it sounded like in your post, I think that would be the way to go.
But there’s more than one way to skin a cat. That’s just what I would. do. Faster, and you don’t have to worry about the two layers of epoxy adhering.
I do the method your describing with poly resin regularly. It gives the color great depth with the clear layer over the color. But with epoxy, I just think it would be way easier to do them both at once.
The rails will take a beating if you’re lending it out to beginners. Just keep that in mind. It’s not the way the pros do it, but I like to put the 4oz under the 6 on the bottom, and the 4oz patch between the 6s on the deck. I don’t care about the extra weight of the HC “filling the weave.” To me, it’s more important that the heavier glass protects the weaker, lighter layer.Just makes sense to me…
If you’re doing a swirl, you’ll get a cleaner look with epoxy if you do the swirl in the 4oz alone, then lam a clear 6oz over it. It will show less weave.
Other than that, a more dense core material would have given you better longevity, but #2 is fine.
You can do it in two time without problems, look on my website, boards with swirl are all made like that, it’s a current method in epoxy composit industry. The key is to do the second layer when the first one is still tacky.
Nj, i first think like you for denser core, i try a lot of schedule on boards and sample for lab test (i am mechanical teacher so i can access to pro material test system) and i found that best weight/strengh ratio is for foam between 1,5 to 2lb with bigger bead and 2x6oz quadaxial lam. More glass give a stiffer panel that break before in fatigue test, 3x4oz break before by separation between coat, denser foam (i test up to 3lb) with less glass break really fast in fatigue test. All my test shows that the good overall stiffness is really important: with light lam you need a stringer, with thick lam you should not use one (for strengh), shear strengh of the bond between lam and foam is really important because all lam test failed by buckling when foam can’t keep lam in place any more because of separation.
that is a decent glassing schedule but if you want the board to last then i would do a 6/6 oz bottom and a 6/6/6/ oz top, that will be nice and strong
i know a local shaper around here that does his eps boards like that and they hold up really well and there still alittle bit lighter than a pu/pe boards
and for the bottom i would just do both layers at one time with the color
hope this helps
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The Low Tech Lab would do a 6 0z bottom and a 2x6 deck......for a longboard.....EPS foam....good stuff.... not cheap ass foam....good foam. Stay away from cheap ass foam!...........