Well I’m making progress. I’ve put in the O’Fish L box and sealed the bottom tonight. Sealing the top and sanding the board tomarrow to get ready for paint and lamination.
Well I’m making progress. I’ve put in the O’Fish L box and sealed the bottom tonight. Sealing the top and sanding the board tomarrow to get ready for paint and lamination.
sealed the top this morning…now off to find some 6oz S glass.
Well coudn’t find any 6oz S glass so on the advice of Henry Fry and Mr. Wade there at Fry’s surfboards I put double 4 S on the bottom and will be doing triple 4 on the top. The bottom flats went SUPER easy…HOWEVER I don’t suggest a beginner do a 9’6" for thier first board. There was just too much rail for me to cover to laps down well and it kicked on me. So my rails suck ass…oh well I can always grind and make sure my top lam covers!
well some quick thinking saved me ALOT of trouble. I used my rail tool traced an outline along the rails cut it with the razor and now have some decent…for a first timer…rails. Saved me hours of sanding I’m sure!
Now does anyone have any suggestions for my triple 4oz top so that it doesn’t kick so fast. I’m using RR Resin with 1ml of Additive F per Oz of harnder. I’ve heard you don’t have much room to play with the ratio, but this stuff kicked just about like poly! Got hot quick, then started gelling. When I used the resin the other day it just got slowly more thick. This stuff was about 3 minutes from the last time it was workable to tacky gel. I know I took too long on my rails, but I swear that glassing 101 video made the rail look to easy!
BugPower,
Did you get the slow or fast hardener?? Next time get the slow…if you didn’t. I use it and it gives me time to get things right. Also only add 1cc per oz for laminating, double it(add f) for hotcoating and glossing. I used too much one time and it kicked hot…at least I think that is what happened. Luckily it was on a hotcoat and I was done quick, the pot was smokin hot!! That would be my guess…too much “f” …peace and waves…
Hey BP,
I’m kind of surprised a batch kicked differently. I’ve been using the stuff and its like clock work with a lot of time to work when using the slow hardener. How much additive F were you shooting - really has me curious to see if that creates a difference.
What temps are you working in? The stuff is pretty indifferent to warm air but working in the a.m. (when it’s cooler)or turing on the a/c (if avail) would probably extend your time a little. Also get the stuff out of the bucket and onto the glass/board asap. It will kick in the bucket a lot faster than when it’s on the board (better for saturation as well).
All advisement is to adhere to the 2/1 ratio - I would not deviate from that. Keep us posted…
Best,
Herb
1cc = 1ml I think. I used an eye dropper I had from some old Creatine after washing it out. I was just taking my time on the laps, however it went off quickly I’ve definatly got some pointers for next time. You have to make sure you wet out all the cloth. Once it starts to gel you can’t push it into the weave.
Oh yeah, forgot.
For the rails: Keep a 2-3" chip brush (paintbrush) handy, and keep just a little bit of resin left in the bucket. I have hard time with the rails as well and just end up painting the resin on areas that I missed with the squeegee. Works great for me - also helps with the “basting theory”.
Make sure to keep an eye out for any dry spots on the deck too. When it doubt, I hit the small ones with that brush too.
Best,
Herb
You never said if you had slow or fast hardener? Next time fold your laps on deck and pour a line of resin on them,then pour the rest out on the deck,lightly move it around (stiff squeegee…) to the areas not covered with the pour…and let soak in…it will froth if you try to force it into the cloth. After a minute or two it will soak in and you can begin to squeegee the deck/bottom…when you are done with that the laps should be drenched and ready to tuck. I only had one batch go off kinda hot…guessed it was too much “f” ,not sure…RR epoxy is the best and sooooo easy to work with. Have fun…peace and waves…
Yeah, 1 ml and 1 cc are the same amount. You’re correct…
Best,
Herb
Thanks for the top on folding the laps up and wetting them down. I have a brush handy, buy didn’t use on on the bottom. I’ve ground down and cut out most of the problems. Just had to reglass a small portion of the rails this morning to get rid of a large area where the resin was too thick to go into the weave, but coated the outside. I’m going to do a cloth inlay ontop of my lams to cover up alot of it. I’m not too concerned with the wieght as it will probably still be lighter then any Poly board I could have done. Plus I’d probably have just as much if not more problems with poly setitng up too quickly.
YEAH top lam went MUCH better…only problem with folding laps over, is it can be hard to get the cloth straight again when you have laps that have to go over 3.25" rails. These pictures are of the top.
one last pic
Yeah I goofed, I should have said …pour a line down each rail THEN fold laps up …pour another line…then dump the rest around the center of the deck. Your deck looks nice and smooth with no air, nice work. Question: do you down size your digi pics with a photo program…or from your camera? I put my camera to the lowest quality but the pics still come out around 400-500kb?? Thanks…
Sean W.
yeah adobe Photoshop 7 … I’m a teacher that uses these things all the time. yeah resized from 1600x1200 to 500x3?? just to get it down below the sizing requirements.
pics of the inlay