red_boards,
How about routing the shaped blank and inserting the stomp pad in order to have it flush with the deck?
also to red_boards: If I’m understanding correctly (that the stomp area is flexible?), how do you get the lam and/or resin over the flexible area to not crack/split/ding up?
Different topic: lemat’s comment on resin type seems timely/crucial. It’s possible (I can’t remember) that I did the original lam on the board in my last post with Kwik Kick, and that that could have had a role in the delam that took place.
One other non-topical but somewhat related discovery (topic: spackle vs other foam fill coats): the bamboo stringer on the Marko blank definitely absorbed (or at least was stubbornly bound to) a small amount of resin. The stringer definitely had a very fine hard surface that was either bound to or impregnated with resin after the lam pulled up cleanly in sheets. Comforting to find out, as far as using bamboo stringers in the future.
Thank you. I have mixed on a resin:micro on a wood plank before with a spatula to get a dry mix, but then someone said I was popping all the microspheres. I try again with better management of the ratios. The pre-wetting with resin is a good tip, thanks.
OT
It’s an idea, but, as you see in the pic, it’s bagged to the board already with a layer of 2oz innegra under.
The foam is Airex, a high density foam, much harder than EPS.
Actually this is a fix. I cut the board too thin, inserted a full height stringer that was 1/4" proud (one day I’ll do a thread on my “backward” blank construction) and “solved” by adding the foam patch.
(edited in Airex name)