what gets better is the unmeasurable sense of sense release , of all senses wide open and then reacting without thiinking…what gets better is the constant will to be there in that undefinable space between the dots not thought reacting but reflex control reacting…this you must know from the giant slalom concious/unconcious.landing w/perfect poise on point micro seconds before you land and landing again and again never thinking about any landing just landing and projecting beyond yourself in real-time…
the ass bighter is that this damnable Mat must be struggled into position to get the gol durn wave to begin with…ship ship ship,by the time you catch a passable one you are so excited you over steer or fudge it enough to go all the way back to start ahave to go all the way back to the take off
and meanwhile back at the ranch the surf flat we ,me and dave took the twelve footers on a stretch paddle from my house to lydgate to try out the new paddle I shaped saturday…an hour and a half later we stood exausted on the beach surviving the self torture of sit paddlling ,kneel paddling and stand paddlingtrading off we actually only used the paddle 1/2 way each ,there were simply no waves for the mats,they were in the truck incase we did see-em but the challenge of the 12’er and the paddle was kazoom crackling triblifarious…and yet that willie nelson song…"you were always on my mind " was about surfing the mat like a slalom ski making it look so easy it is in fact easy,at the best I have achived this mind state by accident and came to know that that state of being exists and I wish to return enough to endure the discomfort,pain and failure in between the successes that are so exaulting…
…should we annalogise with reproduction because it is re creation.perhaps , perhaps not ,neither sex nor recreation has the zen challange facet that both the mat and paddle deliver…as does surfing in general.the oppertunity to stand or lay beside these great bodies of water in perfect synch is exaulting yet all the while draining* …ambrose…aloha from waipouli
- couldn’t give up on the pun once I saw it coming