I have made my first template based of a 6’4" hobie fish. I’m wanting to use the out line and strech it out to about 6’10"–7’. Is there any good ways to do this? Or should I just start from scratch and use my #'s?
Try the archives Dave, there’s been several good discusions on this… I believe it was Greg Loehr (sp?) who came up with the method. Everything scales about linearly except width… that increases 1/8" for every additional inch in length.
I think this is where it helps to computer design. You can scale it out then smooth out any straights in your curve before cutting into a blank.
Well I think that might be a bit of a stretch to use the same template.
You have two options.
-
I don’t know if anyone has tried this but I think it might work. hang the template by the nose and attach some weights to the tail, leave over night and measure, add more weights untill desired leght is attained.
-
there is a simple equation if you want to do it by numbers and be accurate. take the desired legth and divide it by the length now. then take that number and multiply it by all the dimensions you took off the template and apply them to a new template. not too hard and the most accurate thing you can do. Easier if you have a decimal scale, otherwise just round your numbers to nearest fraction.
If you don’t mind the width also scaling up with the added length, a cad program would be the easiest and most accurate way to do it. If you would take measurements from the center line to the rail line every 4" inches along its length and send them to me, I’ll stick them in my cad program, scale them up, print it out and send it back.
FlaDave, this isn’t a mathematical approach, just a ballpark approach. From 6’4 to 7’0…increase all other dimensions by about 1/8" (excluding thickness). Mark the widepoint relative to the smaller board. You can eye this on a board this size. Experiment with the templates you have. You’ll need to find curves that fit. Your 6’4 Hobie template should be of use.
Thank you guys for all your idea’s. I’m gonna try it a couple different ways just to see which way comes out best for me. Thanks again will up date you guys how it goes.
find the wide point and move the template up three and a half ''then after drawing the template forward…slide it backand draw the back…either over lap the lines or leave em blank …1 over lap lines method eye ball the appropriate curve,pick a line…match the other side…2 method…eye ball an appropriate curve match the other side…invent a linego wide if its a bewer school elipse template…draw it out straight if its a diff school parrallel template…straight section from the center of template length best as a real straight will put you into that “swizzle school” not that there’s anything wrong with that swizzileability…ambrose…instead if center of the stringer …align the template with the glue line that oughta bump it out a smidge
I’m with Ambrose, draw the nose/tail, mark the wide point and put a second and third wide point mark a few inches up and down from the actual wide point (for keeping track of your outline curve) and fill in the middle with a batton or another tamplate. The primitive Pete method…
was Pete a trogladyte?did he know Lunchmeat? Did he have a job at the county seat? was he the clean up guy at the surf meet ? That was the one that Fredie German won .I was delighted to learn that trogladytes were cave dwellers.up till then I was impressed with the way the word sounded that was enough…some times primative methods are so darn direct they get the job done…in a timly and sophisticated fashion and the board’s in the water before you know it…ambrose…GO BUDDY!!! your turn