Extinct Waves

General Discussion
21

Here in Norway, weh have a different problem. The waves are still there, but we’ve lost access to the best once due totrekking birds stopping there. The areas are now birdlife sanctuaries, surfing forbidden. Apparently we scare them too much during winter. Surfing is allowed in the summer. Any help with research on the environmental impact of surfers on birdlife appreciated.

There is this wave back where I grew up that breaks outside of a breakwater. It’s a small point that breaks seldom, but it’s quite nice when it does. I almost cried when noticed what could have been if the breakwater wasn’t there, the point would go on for about 200 yards into a small sandy beach. But in the 50s I guess noone was thinking about the surf there.

regards,

Håvard

22
Quote:

The Cove, Westport, Washington. Dredged in '94 (and more recently), it hasn’t been the same. Used to throw quite makable gaping tubes. Now it throws quite unmakable gaping closeouts…Usually

November 2, 1992

23

So far so good guys. I really appreciate what you uys have taught me so far. Keep 'em coming. Thanks. Darren

24 
Let's not forget Petacalco in Mexico and possibly more in Baja if they go ahead with the safe harbor project every 150 miles along the pacific coast.Aloha,Kokua
25

where i grew up , we lost about 10 good waves …

in the 60s and 70s my region was known for waves and crew would travel there to surf …

but after break walls , marinas , coastal development , a permanent cut made through to the ocean , a spur groyne, sand traps , and dune rehabilitation …

weve lost so many waves , and the ones we have left are either to deep because sand has been stipped from them , or close out because sand has built up on them , or have backwash because they grade the beaches to remove weed and put up fences and added brushing for dune stabilisation …

i have some pictures and video of before and after …

also noted changes , as a few years back was doing a geology coarse , mainly from an interest in coastal formations , transportation of sediment etc …

the natural sand movement along the coast has been comprimised , now it bypasses some places and builds up more in others …

add to that all the extra boat traffic through the man made channel on clean days and it turns the last few waves left into a washing machine …

just waiting for some natural disaster to restore the balance …

in my lifetime ive seen a whole island just appear out of the ocean then join to the mainland , just through the build up of sediment due to a development 20 miles (30 kms ) away …

we even had experts who predicted all these changes as well as surfers and fishermen who could also see the obvious changes to come , as natural movement had a predictable coarse …

but they were all written off , because the developers paid there experts more , now the local councils bare the financial costs of sand replenishment and emergency infill when storms are about to cave in roads and threaten property …

the developers make the profit and some one else picks up the costs of the enviromental catastrophe …

thats life …

regards

BERT

26

One came to mind. I’m suprised no one mentioned it yet-

POP Pier, Los Angeles. See the film “Dogtown and Z-Boys” for great footage.

27
Quote:

La Barre… the French lads will tell you about that one.

La Barre used to be called “the European Pipeline”. Enough said.

Another great wave, but on the fun side (not really a high performance wave) was found in Hendaye, breaking into the Bidasoa rivermouth. Hendaye being the last french city and the Bidasoa being the natural border between France and Spain, if you went right you were in Spain and if you went left you were in France. I was lucky enough to ride that wave before it disappeared because of dredging. Here is an old photo of that wave, with Spain in the background:

28

…Change is inevitable…

My usual break is a rivermouth…it changes from swell to swell…never being quite what is was before…aways changing…

extinct favs…Atomic Bowl… Man made temporary piers created a “POP Cove” type break that reigned “King” for 5 years or so back in the 70’s…NukePlant…San O,Ca.

My other fav was a break known only to few…it was in the L.A.Harbor a couple miles inshore from the federal break water ,down shot from the Angel’s Gate entrance, Across from the Naval Ship Yard…It was a boxed in area by jetties,filled with sand and boat wreckage…This was the spot where the dredgers would pile the sand up from clearing the channel,to allow the larger ships thru…When we here on the So.Cal. coast got a heeping Steep south…better known as a south/southeast storm swell…This place would break like a outter island reef.Not a long wave …or was it ever very big…like eyeball high to a 5’8"er…but WHAT A GAS!!!..now…a full on loading dock for the Chinese…like I said…Changes…Herb

29

Growing up on the Big Island, my brother and I, plus a couple neighborhood surf rats, used to pack the '65 Malibu wagon and head on down to Kalapana, to surf Drainpipe, or the several breaks in Kaimu Bay, and the left (north) point. We surfed from pre-dawn to 0900 when it would usually blow out. All those breaks were sharky.

1984, comes the Lady in Red, covers it all.

We remember it well, some of us.

30

As the Planet warms and Sea levels rise

New waves may be born to replace those

That have met their demise.

(Perhaps the only bright side to Global Warming!)

31

Darren here is one from the UK. The Wedge on Tolcarne Beach, this used to be a favorite of the sponging fraternity of the South West. Since the building on the beach it has disappeared.

32

Paul,

Thanks for that photo of the Cove. It’s been a while.

-Robert