Using the info gathered from the JC Shaping 101, and patiently awaiting the Damascus Video Series I’m faced with turning out the rails on a 9’0" longboard. I’m looking for a blend of modern down rail in the rear and a blend of modern/forgiving 60/40 rails mid to soft in the nose. I think the 3/8" deep teardrop concave and the V-panels in the tail look pretty good but when I get to the rail line on a longboard the anticipation sets in. I can see what I want but getting there is another problem. Anyone got some basic tips to go by after the rocker is in place and the foil in the nose and tail seem to be right? Is there a process of measurements and guidelines that might be similar to Shaping 101 that could be extrapolated for laying out the rail bands for a longboard? Dimensions are 9’0" x 18 x 22.5 x 15. Mas or Menos pretty standard stuff, using a 9’1"Y. Tom Sterne
Using the info gathered from the JC Shaping 101, and patiently awaiting > the Damascus Video Series I’m faced with turning out the rails on a > 9’0" longboard. I’m looking for a blend of modern down rail in the > rear and a blend of modern/forgiving 60/40 rails mid to soft in the nose. > I think the 3/8" deep teardrop concave and the V-panels in the tail > look pretty good but when I get to the rail line on a longboard the > anticipation sets in. I can see what I want but getting there is another > problem. Anyone got some basic tips to go by after the rocker is in place > and the foil in the nose and tail seem to be right? Is there a process of > measurements and guidelines that might be similar to Shaping 101 that > could be extrapolated for laying out the rail bands for a longboard? > Dimensions are 9’0" x 18 x 22.5 x 15. Mas or Menos pretty standard > stuff, using a 9’1"Y.>>> Tom Sterne…Tom, I a carpenters square to measure were the curve of the rail starts from the bottom of the board and the apex of the rail at the planshape edge. You may want to subtract 1/8" to make up for foam lost when screening. You can take the measurements off a board you like and mark them on your blank, then use a fred tool to cut in the bevel. For a modern LB 1/2" to 5/8" in and up has worked for me depending on how thick the board is and how thin the rail will be. I hope this helps. Good luck to ya, Scott
I’d like to see some pros respond to this question. I call this area the “hip” rail. On top AND bottom, the outline bulge prevents merely blending midboard rails with tail rails. I spend way too much time eyeballing the hips, only to make them soso. Well?
Noodle - I’m no pro but I think I may know where you’re having problems. Your outline has been cut and your rails are squared off and true (I sometimes use a template on the deck to make sure my top edges are symmetrical.) Establish where you want your tucked under rail to become an edge in the tail. As you shape the tuck (using a “fred” or whatever), work forward from the tail edge to the nose. After enough strokes, you’ll eventually achieve a blended tuck that transitions from that edge in the tail, to the most tucked area (you’ll have to decide where), to the nose rail which may not have any edge at all. Try to stay clear of the edge in the tail when doing your tuck is what I’m trying to say. On the deck, establish in your mind’s eye what you want your tail area to look like (domed vs flat vs ?) When shaping the thickness, pay attention to the stringer on the deck. Check out a board or two you like. When eyeballing from the tail, is the top of the stringer how you want the deck line? Are you after a “camel” deck or a “kick tail” with the top of the stringer actually concave through the tail? Once you’ve worked that out in your head, start near the tail and work your way up being careful not to take too much off the rail crown through the hip area you mentioned. Measure different spots on each side of the stringer with your calipers to make sure your thickness is symmetrical. Especially with a power plane and close tolerance blank, it’s easy to get your rails too thin in this area and you’ll end up chasing your tail as you try to even it out. Keep the rail crown beefy at first and you can use a rubber “longblock” with coarse sand paper to bring them down to size. Take it slow and try to visualize what you’re after. Dale Solomonson posted here that he uses a homemade jig to measure deck curves. I’ve also seen templates used for deck, bottom and rail curves all rolled into one device! It looked something like a giant “french curve” drafting tool. Sorry this is such a long post, hope it helps.
John, Thanks for the insight. For shaping foam other than hips, tools can make their own lines. Sounds like there’s no quick answer for hips, just good planning, a keen eye, and a true hand.
Good input from all of you. Thanks for the guidance. I finished the 9’0" and went back out the next morning and it still looked good. Sometimes I just get blinded by all of that white acreage while eyeing up and down, back and forth. Tom>>> Using the info gathered from the JC Shaping 101, and patiently awaiting > the Damascus Video Series I’m faced with turning out the rails on a > 9’0" longboard. I’m looking for a blend of modern down rail in the > rear and a blend of modern/forgiving 60/40 rails mid to soft in the nose. > I think the 3/8" deep teardrop concave and the V-panels in the tail > look pretty good but when I get to the rail line on a longboard the > anticipation sets in. I can see what I want but getting there is another > problem. Anyone got some basic tips to go by after the rocker is in place > and the foil in the nose and tail seem to be right? Is there a process of > measurements and guidelines that might be similar to Shaping 101 that > could be extrapolated for laying out the rail bands for a longboard? > Dimensions are 9’0" x 18 x 22.5 x 15. Mas or Menos pretty standard > stuff, using a 9’1"Y.>>> Tom Sterne