I ran into him at Malibu. He had locked his keys in his car, and I could see there was a problem, so I approached him, and gave him my cell phone and a cold drink while he called and waited for a locksmith. We chatted a bit, really nice guy, he told me his philosophy riding an SUP at Malibu (be cool, don't hog waves, but pick up anything anyone else falls off on), said he also had a fish he rode there, but got into SUPs to keep his wave count up. I asked if he was on Swaylocks, he told me sometimes, and his name Steamroller. Once he got the keys out, he was off to surf, happy as a clam. I watched him a bit, like was mentioned, big Hawaiian guy built like a linebacker, no wetsuit, pink baseball hat, you just couldn't miss him in the lineup. He seemed to know everyone on the beach.
in ovarocks he’s surfing just off to the right of magic island next to bombura’s in about 1-4 inches of water you can see the reef exposed as the wave comes in.
for sending me this link and photo of your impressive quiver ! [this version has been cropped, so the fat penguin and the geminis are a bit more evident ....]
....you will recognise some of THESE boards for sure , Bernie !!
do think these could be loaded and cnc machine cut like someone mentioned earlier?
now that would be cool!
Jeff Alexander had his gemini’s machine cut over at the Campbell Industrial Park factory through Hawaiian Islands Creations back in the day. That’s where I got some of my preshaped blanks that I skinned in balsa. So i guess if you get the dimensions in you might be able to cnc these out.
Steamroller’s the only one who’s ever called me ONTO waves at Malibu. Aloha.
Watch the bottom turn at 3:16. Talk about power. I think he covers like 25 yards with one turn (longer than my entire ride on a n average nbeach break day). On what looks like a 10’-6". I think BK would be proud. Bottom turns are the most overlooked maneuver in our sport and yet my favorite to watch.
...this , from Jim , as I had asked him [as I DO !] ....
1. 'What fin setups used ?'
2. 'How do you feel the board surfed ?'
3. 'What size surf have you used it in ?'
his answers [THANKS , Jim !] ......
"
hey ben-
i rode it with 2 different sets of fins...the basic MR twin and a similar template with a little less area in the tip...the real change came in the little fins set on the rail in the board's center...i started with the shape/size indicated in the plans/drawings..kind of a mini-keel. it was sort of tracky so i made a set of smaller fins with less base length..a little better. then i put in a set of herb spitzer super chargers he sent me in 2002 that are only the size of your thumbnail and that seemed best.
because of the narrowness of the nose, the board really likes to go straight up..one of the better boards i've had for vertical, off the lip surfing....it seemed to pivot on that little canard fin in front and rotate on that wider area between your feet. the biggest surf i had it in was a couple feet overhead...seemed to have the most fun in chest high, punchy surf. it wasn't the ultimate surfboard as its proponents touted, but a lot of fun nonetheless.
all the best-
jim
"
So, I trust this feedback from Jim is helpful for you , Bernie ?
And for any others here , who might possibly be considering 'doing the F.P. dance' ? ( It could get interesting if at least a handful of 'Swaylockians' [out of the 15,000 plus people [?!] here ] would take up the challenge to make , and ride , and report on , the Fat Penguin' ? )
well, I just wish that I could have picked up the one I saw in the surf museum in coffs harbour [it was up in the rafters, unfortunately?!] .... and better still, I would have liked to have been able to take it for a SURF !
I was curious to feel the weight of it , with all that extra foam [WHAT blank[s] do they use to make them , I wonder ??] , plus , WHERE the balance point of the board was / is ...
it WOULD be interesting to surf one , yes ,
so I hope you get to make it Bernie , and you WILL let Harry surf it too [?] , and we are lucky enough to hear of [? and see [?'go pro' footage / photos ?] it in action ....
well, since I went to the trouble of posting those shots Jim kindly emailed me , I'm keen to hear if they were of any use to you , and if you ARE still going to go ahead with this ??
So , Bernie , DO you have any update[s] , please ?
very very very very interesting feedback hmm just the sort of experience needed to validate fin placement way forward of conventional setups discussed in this thread : http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/fin-placement-wherelse