I just installed my fcs fushion plugs. I made a mistake I routed the blank and I tought it was a good rout. Then I look at it and one of the side boxes is crooked just a little more of a toe on one of em. Just a little crooked. What should I do? How can I fix it. One is an 1" of toe in the other is over 1" just a little. But u can see it clearly. Thanks guys I know you guys will help me out, this is an awesome site and I learned alot from alot of you. Peace
I’d reposition the jig and re-rout. If you end up with too much volume around one side of the plug, and you’re concerned with exotherm, do the install in two pours.
SLBadboy,
Do I understand correctly that you are using 1" of toe in? Somewhere around 1/4" is the norm. Anyway use the Fusion box to trace out a plug on a scrap piece of foam. Glue this in and then reposition your jig and go at it again.
Dave_D
Glue it with what? I’m just learning to shape. I already cut up a foam shaped like the fcs fushion. So u said to glue it?
By the way anybody out there I shaped a 5’9 x18x2 1/4 the toe in is around 1’’ is this ok?
Also one of the boxes I routed has a little more of a toe in in it a little crooked. Or should I leave it alone and surf it and see if it is the (magic board )hehehe.
Should I go on in fixing it know since i routed on the blank before glassing?
Quote:
I'd reposition the jig and re-rout. If you end up with too much volume around one side of the plug, and you're concerned with exotherm, do the install in two pours.
That what I would do, I have installed quite a few and that seems the easiest way.
Quote:
Quote:I’d reposition the jig and re-rout. If you end up with too much volume around one side of the plug, and you’re concerned with exotherm, do the install in two pours.
That what I would do, I have installed quite a few and that seems the easiest way.
I don’t understand what NJ is saying here
Can some explain to me step by step what NJ is saying in this quot, (do in stall in 2 pours)
if the hole is too big you will have to make up for it by using additional resin.
resin will exotherm and generate heat.
this process is compounded as you have more and more resin.
if it gets too hot, it can melt the foam around the box causing you even greater
headaches.
by pouring the resin in multiple steps, you keep the amount of resin around the box
low thus mitigating the risk of it getting hot
SlBadboy,
Mix up some epoxy with microballoons and just lightly paint the hole. Have the plug so it will be as tight as possible. You can get a pretty tight fit in EPS. This is an EPS blank isn’t it? You could also use white glue (vy slow to dry) or one of the clear p/u glues like the Loctite Sumo stuff. The p/u stuff will possibly yellow though. 1" toe in is too much IMO. Use a straight edge on your fin marks and see where they line up. Should be at or beyond the nose. What NJSurfer was talking about is that if you end up with a large area that has to be filled with epoxy it will possibly overheat and melt the surrounding foam. First lets be sure we are talking about an EPS blank.
Dave D
R- give me a call bring the board I’ll show you the fix and show how to set the boxes
SL,
1 in of toe is way too much, the board be slow from too much drag. it will feel like your dragging a dead cat. You have to reset the back plug at least. A good rule of thumb is 1 1/4 off the rail, and point the fins directly at the nose. If you want a faster board bring the fins to point 2" in shy of the nose, if you want a bit looser board point the fins 1-2 in past the nose. Also, if you set the side fins more straight up down, you’ll get a faster board, more cant and you’ll get a looser board. That’s really basic stuff, but a fair place to start.
My favorite is a really rockery board, with almost straight cant, and fins pointed 2in shy of the nose.
…with 1 1/4 off the rail and pointing to the very tip you ll obtain too much toe in
in almost all the situations
stuff like 3/8 or so…
not a way to go in 80 % of the scenarios
Bud gave you the only answer you need…
go see him
you’ll learn more from that
than reading about anything on a website.
thanks Bud…
for reminding us
what Swaylocks was started for…
SLB,
are you measuring toe at 1"out from tip of nose. Aft mark at 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 off rail then using nose as toe reference fore point?
Screwfoot thats what I did exactly, I measured the toe 1" from the tip of the nose.
Quote:
…with 1 1/4 off the rail and pointing to the very tip you ll obtain too much toe in
in almost all the situations
stuff like 3/8 or so…
not a way to go in 80 % of the scenarios
Too each his own I guess?
Jay,
Don’t you think it would feel more like dragging a dead Seal?
I just noticed that the board in question is 5’9"? I my usual fin placement is for boards in the + 7’6" department. Pointing the fins at the nose of a 7’6" usually nets between 3/16 toe & 1/4 toe…so shooting the fins at the nose to maybe 1 inch outside the nose is perfect for me. As for the off the rail thing, I need at least 1 1/8 to 1 1/4.
Now for the seal thing: The only thing that drags more than a dead seal, is a basket of seal heads being pulled by a great white shark.
repeal the Marine Mammal protection act of 1974. Let the best mammal win!!
Thanks alot guys u guys are the best. Swaylock’s ROCK YEAAAAHH