edit: for the record - “fail” means a botched attempt on my part, not “failure” as in something wrong with the plugs or jig…
So I had a minor fail on my new board today. I didn’t realize that my partner had used the router since I had last set it up for my fin plugs, And in my haste, I forgot to make sure the correct bit was installed and routed out one of my side fins with a standard bit. The hole is now too big and I need to fill it to correct the mistake. My question is this: do you think the amount of fill (cabosil and resin, nothing special) will create enough weight that I should do the same plug on the opposite side with the same bit, or will the difference be negligible enough for me to install the rest of the plugs with the correct bit?
Yes I read the subject line that way also… the fusion bit has a bearing on it, a larger routed hole means a smaller bearing dosen’t it? Just trying to get my head around that…
Anyway I think the method Hans described is the way to go, a filler plug glued in and re-rout the correct hole. A few boards ago I made an alignment mistake and had to do some corrective surgery - lucky it was my board
ya if you read the actual thread and not the subject line I never implied it was a failure of the plugs. It was an fcs fusion “fail” as in common Internet lingo for unsuccessfully attempting something
so I ended up going the filler route since I don’t have a lot of time these days and I wanted it to be a quick fix - plus it’s my board and the bottom is getting pigmented so it should look like there was never a flaw in the first place.
I mixed up some viscous q-cell and resin and filled the bottom and side with a mixture of that and glass flocking. Did the whole thing in about two pours to get it close to level, and then used what I call “drywall resin” (lots of q-cell mixed in all at once to get that easily sandable “spackle” consistency) to fill the remainder up over the foam.
I reverse-taped the plug prior to my final pour so that the tape followed the outline of the fin box but hung out over the hole instead of the box itself. This was particularly important to this process because had I simply taped over the plug itself I would’ve been left with a ridge, but by taping it counter-intuitively to what you would typically do for something like painting the foam, it allowed the resin to flow directly to the edge of the box without there being any ridge at all.
I lightly sanded down the high side to be flush with the foam on the rail and taper into the box, I did the same on the opposite side with the foam to eliminate the high ridge of foam next to the box (deep concaves plus a 9* cant means you’re gonna have a foam ridge, even if you use the orange plugs). I then double-patched the plugs with my fiberglass “footballs” (one exactly the size of the plug under and one larger than the plug over) to bring everything back to level… Turned out far better than I expected and the board is finally ready to get laminated!
I was going to take the advice of some of the guys from the Resin Tints and Patterns thread, and add a bit of white to my pigment to make it more opaque… besides, the bottom portion where the fins are will be a dark purple, so it will mask quite a bit
Not to be a dick, but the problem here was not an FCS failure.
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what was the question? Why ask a question when you already know the answer? This looks like another general discussion add....trust me...I did not click on your adds....aka...links..........and I can't find the "FCS Failure"....you do nice ding repair.....maybe the title should be....
I F'ed up my FCS install....here's how to fix it......it's been a long day....I need some cool aid...
Man do people even read the thread anymore? We’ve already established that I said “fail” not “failure” - a “fail” in common internet lingo means a botched attempt at performing a task… man we must have some dinosaurs on here
No those are the glassed-on patches. The other three are routed perfectly… if you look very closely you can see the slightly different shade of white on the front left finbox on the rail side.
As for finish I was thinking gloss coat for strength and to make the pigment pop
On pigmented boards… do the patches on top insted of underneath. That way you dont get color inconsistancies by increased resin saturation in the 2 layers of glass.
With what you got… and if it was me… I would just glass it clear and then either spray on the hotcoat or do resin panels with solid opaques and then gloss it.
With the way you have it you are just adding more work for yourself in the long run.
2 staging those patches is just a hassle and extra step.
