Feeling my age, sharing my frustration, advice

General Discussion
1

Hi all,

I am new to this forum.  I was inspired by many stories I have read here.  You see I found you from a web search I did this morning as I sit in my office at work reflecting on my surfing life. 

I have always been in pretty good shape as I have been lucky to look and feel at least 10 years younger than I am,  a blessing for sure.  However, I have never been much into working out or running etc.  I just kind of kept in shape by staying active playing tennis, surfing, playing with my kids etc.  But now as I am about to turn 48 I am feeling my age for the first time.  I married a younger woman 3 years ago and we have a beautiful new baby.  So that, work, and lack of waves (I live in S. FL.) has kept me out of the water.  Living in S.FL waves are infrequent and really infrequent in the summer.  You really have to be on it when it’s on.  As you know swell, wind, tide and light just does not go by your schedule.  So I have found it very hard to get out there.  These days I surf a couple of times in the summer and once every couple of weeks other times of year.   I used to be able to surf at least once a week or more during the better times of year.  Those times seem to be gone now.

Anyway, yesterday after about 4 months or so of not surfing (kids, baby, life, timing of swell, etc.) I finally made it out.  Got up for a early morning sesh.  Tropical disturbance brought us some 3-5 foot waves but with heavy on shore and a bit of victory at see conditions.  Tough go after not surfing for a while but nothing was going to stop me.  So I stretched a bit and hit it.  10 minutes of paddling and duck diving and I hit the wall and didn’t make it out.   What!   Embarrassing.  Not me not here.  The waves aren’t big just relentless.  Sat on the beach a few to catch my breath and take my licking.  Hit it again.  Almost out and a set comes in and cleans me up!  WTH.  I’m pathetic.  Back to the beach to lick my wounds and catch my breath and let my rubbery arms rest.  Here I go again, 3rd time’s a charm, finally made it out.  But now my arms are rubber and I’m out of breath.  Set’s coming in and I just have to wait to rest.  I’m thinking, “I can’t drown out here, I have family that needs me”.  What!  So here comes a wave, I paddle kind of.  Get it start to stand up feel weak and just chunk it.  Jeeze what a kook (I used to be a pretty decent surfer)!  Got to get back out, ok did it, I’m out again and paddling against the wind and waves.  Paddle for a couple and don’t get in.  Here comes one, I got it.  Tired up slow stand then hurl.  Now a set cleans me up and I just can’t get back out. Can’t risk it I’m done just too tired and don’t want to be stupid.  Spent.  Slither back to the beach feeling defeated like a complete kook.  The wind is blowing, I can smell the sea, the salt on my skin.  I shower get dressed and drive home. 

I’m home and a bit disappointed.  I’m feeling my age, I’m scarred.  I’m a surfer, since I was 13 and first gave it a go I fell in love with the sport and it’s just been my favorite activity and pastime, nothing else compares.  But now what?  Actually, I’m feeling pretty good, my spirits are up I feel a bit exhilarated.  Just going out being in the water, paddling, working, moving, being with the ocean again.  I need to change things.  I know that now.  Reading this blog, finding I am not alone.  Living in S. FL I can’t surf as much as I like to be in shape so I have to be more fit.  Next time I can get out, things will be different, better, more confident, more fun.  Thanks for the stoke, I remember what it was like.

I wonder if there are waves today?  Maybe I can hit it after work. :slight_smile:

Jack

2

hello and welcome to swaylocks!  

did you read through this thread? http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/surfers-over-50

stuff we took for granted when we were younger becomes more difficult as we age, gotta put up a fight to stay in the game!

3

Use it or loose it - not a put-down but encouragement.

4

Get back into the best shape you can, but nothing can replace water time. 

5

Stretch, squat, sit-up, twist, crunch, burpee…whatever all the exercises are called, I’ve made it a daily routine, and it has to hurt a bit or it’s a waste of time…
That being said my theory will go into practice in a few weeks so I’ll let you know if it helped…

6

I hear ya. I’m 52, and there came a time where I had to stop saying I would take care of my body and really do it, everyday- short but consistant exercise routine, eating healthy, unprocessed food. Paying attention to your stress level and keeping perspective mentally is key too.

I look at it as a positive thing, an aspect of learning not to just take things for granted, and being more conscious, which naturally leads to being more appreciative of life and small things in general (I bet you’re feeling that as a new father).

The funny thing is, I’m definitely losing agility and stamina in my surfing, but finding more joy in it than ever. And wave and ocean knowlege are not tied to youth, just the opposite- it deepens with experience. The vistas of what is possible never narrow, because the wave, and the moment, is always new.

 

 

7

Nailed it.  I’m 52 also and focus on eating well and not too much, sleeping well, exercising consistently, avoiding injury in just about everything I do, and keeping the stoke.  Working for me, so far.  Still surfing boards under 6’ in most reasonable conditions; all of my own design, made in my garage.  I’m really good at hiding volume.

One more thing, if you’re close enough to the beach to have the ability to score waves after or before work, go out in all conditions that have breaking waves no matter what.

8

Having no waves for a while, and being an ex surf junkie, I’m trying to keep some spring in my step, keep the muscles twitching.
Like you guys, I’m a bit older, 56, and went through a stage, actually it’s happened a few times, where I would just be complacent and slow down.
My mind would going crazy because my body still wanted to go, so I’ve decided just to go with it and try and keep up…so far feels good…takes some effort.

9

Iʻll be 57 in September. Been surfing since I was in the 4th grade, and surfing seriously since middle school. Went out on Fatherʻs Day and surfed the second day of a good swell. After 3.5 hours I went in and on my last ride I got hammered in the close out section and hit my head with my board. Got 8 stitches. Took a couple of weeks off to heal, but got back out. During another good swell about a month ago, I rode one too far and I had to work extra hard to get back out. Just when I thought I going to make it, a clean up set rolls in and Iʻm right in the impact zone. I took the first one on the head and I got blasted. It ripped the board out of my hands and I thought I was going to drown from the hold down. Came up and thought I lost my board, but it was just being held down with me. After dealing with the next few waves I went in. Gotta know when to back off, itʻs something Iʻve never been good at.

10

What a bunch of young whiney punks…

11

wimps I’m telling ya…hell, back in our day we had to walk 3 miles through the snow barefoot just to get to the surf…lol

anyway, the best way to surf better will always remain the same.…just surf more

12

A decent day in GOOD surf can make a world of difference!  Seriously… maybe take a trip to a user friendly spot and give yourself a fighting chance?  Relentless crap conditions can be discouraging for anybody.

There are any number of alternate activities worth pursuing that can help maintain some level of fitness but none will replace actual water time. Just practicing your ‘pop-up’ off the floor can be better than nothing.  In fact, it can help quite a bit if getting to your feet is more difficult than it used to be.

Wait 'til you’re 60…  HAHA

13

A while back I was having problems getting to my feet on small boards going backside. I decided to do popups at home. Try doing 10 minutes straight of going from your stomach to your feet in one swift move. Some places require that kind of speed to get to your feet. The difference is that the board is falling away from you, but the floor isn’t, so you have to really push up hard the get your feet. It’ll wear you out. Kinda like doing a push up and clapping your hands before you get back down.

14

Tough to stay in shape in the water in south Florida if there aren’t waves.  Get a prone paddle board and go out on that every day you don’t have surf.  You will be surprised at the extra horsepower you get in your paddling stroke.  

And don’t forget  “A man has got to know his limitations”  -Dirty Harry, Magnum Force.

15

ACE,

Love ya!

Young punks!

HA! look who is talking…

63 going on 64

which are a mark in time as to when 

I started…

Surfing.

Where the Hell is your cheesegrader, cuz I am gonna beat you with it!

Damn!

@52 still on NS 

Raised boy

saved him

told him to stay on the beach.

@ 59 Boy started to try to save me

“you OK Popz?”

Now it is

“Hey Popz! Stay on da beach, eh?”

My advice

once back outside

take a pit stop

and let some go by!

 

16

The first time I went back out in bigger surf after my accident was at Courts with a 4-6 solid swell. This is the same place I got whacked in the head. Waves were coming in double over head and just about to where it starts closing out. I took this board out there, a 7-9 and almost 3.5 inches thick. It took me about an hour to finally get back into it and force myself to put my head down and go for it with the crowd. Got my share of really good solid waves, and for an hour there were only 6 of us sharing waves that were just as nice as any recent photos of Indo. We were joking that it was about as good as any boat trip could be. I was lucky to be there at the right time, and I got some of my mojo back. You gotta get back on the horse quickly if you plan to ride again. I’ll never be as flexible or have as much stamina as I did when I was in my 30’s, 40’s, or even early 50’s. Too many heart problems and other excuses, but I’m still having a heck of a lot of fun, and I’m still trying. My friend shots these of me at Shark Country on a 7’ XPS I made a year or so ago. I have to wear a hat to cover my forehead and I use an inflatable vest to give me a little cushion between the board and the scar on my chest.


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17

You suck, you are old and the chicks don’t dig you. What are you going to do about it?

You can be the victim. Yea… sit back and complain…or make things happen. It’s your choice…go for it…

 

18

Jacksonole , at 48 , your not much more than a grommet…how much do you want it ? …really

19

That is what I was thinkin!

20

Thanks I got the message loud and clear.  I seem to been able to get away with it up until now.  Need to find more ways to stay in surfing shape so when I can go I can enjoy the to the best of my abilities.  Thanks for the support.