Acetone is a solvent - I don’t keep it in my shop, but if you had some, you could use it as a wipe-down solvent for cleaning purposes (not as a thinning agent for epoxy). I haven’t gone to that extreme, just sanding the repair area well has worked for me.
Buffing will give you a polished surface - epoxy can be polished, just not as glossy as poly gloss coat. You said you are doing ding repair on poly boards, which typically do have a gloss coat. And the assumption is that you would want your ding repair to blend in - so you buff it at the finish stage, to get a closer match to the rest of the board.
That makes sense, although I don’t think resinhead advocated using acetone with epoxy, like I said, he just mentioned it as an option for a wipe-down solvent. I don’t keep it in the shop since I’ve gone to strictly epoxy, I can thin and cleanup with denatured alcohol. Probably suspects that the original poster is not getting his ding repair areas clean, if his patches aren’t bonding.
When I’m doing ding repair, one if the first things I do is clean the entire board of all wax, dirt, sand, etc., before beginning repairs.
i want to say that the way the repairs peels off was like that:
i was used razor blade to clean up the edges a bit the razor blade was in 180 degree. preety much the angle that you normally used to remove wax…so the razor blade enter to the ding fiberglass layer and then some of the patch peels right off…maybe its like surfboard wax that stick to the surface and when you want to remvoe it you come with some tool in 180 angle and then it remove easily? what do you say about that?
This is all basic stuff here and I suppose was assuming too much. Acetone is used to clean the surface…getting wax and grime off. I did not say mix epoxy and acetone. Common sense tells use to wear proper mask and gloves when handling any solvent or high VOC material. When in doubt read the MDS sheet or back of the can.
Yes I have acetone in my shop, it is used and marketed as a solvent of fiberglass and epoxy work…it works really well in this application, but is also a very effective surface cleaner when used in moderation. Once again, I’m not saying to bath the board in acetone or mix it with something.
Heres the tip of the day: Don’t mix epoxy with anything, except pigments or tints (Pigmnets & Tints are the colorant used in Poly resin and epoxy, Pigments are opaque, and tints are see through colors). I never mix epoxy with acetone ,or DNA. If you need to thin epoxy out, then do it with heat (heat from the microwave, do not use a blow torch and a open flame). Only warm the A side of the epoxy, this is the epoxy side…not the hardner side. Put your epoxy in the microwave for about 10-15 seconds, then mix with the B side…The epoxy consistency will be really close to poly resin, but you have sped up the reaction time a bit, so you need to get the material out of the bucket and on to the board.
As for tape…use whatever you want, I was assuming that all your previous ding work would have steered you in a general direction as to what tape works, and what does not work. Thickness, chemical resistance, heat, flexibility, and release all come into play. If you have ever put tape down and left it to sit on a surface for a week or two, then come back to pull it up only the find it shread and part in your hands…then you will understand the need for the right tape for the right job. 3M 233 is the industry standard for epoxy and resin work, there are other type of tape out there, but its all trial and error finding a good one.
Ding work with epoxy is done exactly the same as poly, it just takes longer to wait for the kick off.
after sanding thers is not way that i cant remove it. just before glassing when the ding is above the surface area…If so, what are you asking.
Or this?:
as far as i know acetone and epoxy really dont work well together… what is the diffrence between 3m masking tape and chip normal masking tape? and what the buffing part will give me ? isnt buffing use for gloss coat?
Or is it something different now? because I think we have covered this topic ad neusem in this post, and you said this is all stuff you already knew? So Im sorry if I bored you with old information? If you have a specific question I’ll try to help.
first of all, i like to thank every body here that tryin to help me figure what im doing wrong.
resin head, its number 1# as i written before, some of my repairs peels of easily when im using razor blade to trim edge etc. i am using KK for all the repairs im doing. please take a look at my comments in the post.the repairs cant peel off after im sanding them flush, only when they above the surface. please read the all post and then try to answer me. many thanks
A repair will not peel off of a surface if preped like I mentioned in my posts. You have a dirty filthy surface. A filthy surface acts like a release agent. wax is the #1 cause. I bet the ding was on the deckside of the board too…not the bottom.
I’ve done repairs with .99 cent 5 min epoxy from harbor Freight and the are still waterproof and tight.
Some repairs on the deck and some dont. i will try to peel them of in my next repair. this time i prep larger area and with 40 grit. tried to clean it the best as i can. which solvent/alcohoel i need to use for making sure no wax or any kinde of dirt remain on the surface?