fiberglass batten for templates

General Discussion
21

"Spend a lot of time looking.......and look some more"

In the shell of a nut.

22

ya all need some lessons in lofting?       and patern making is a learned craft full stop.

 

 for this thread listen to mike

 

 

 

       cheers huie

23

Thanks huie, lofting and tic-sticks and all that stuff is indeed a learned craft. I think every CAD boat guy should be required to study that before they ever turn on a program.

24

I believe it is Greg Loehr’s eps shaping video that demonstrates how to do that.

 

25

Personally I would trust a template on hard material to give more symmetrical results than a bender board/rod that depending on how it is laid out, might flex slightly differently from side to side(?)  FWIW the method I described was how I do it when creating a curve on hard template material like Masonite or thin ply.  Once the curve is perfected on Masonite I can easily trace around that for the outline on the blank.  The template can then be used to double check my outline curve if needed as shaping progresses.

I checked at my local bike shop and he has a barrel of fiberglass rods for safety flags at less than 5.00 each.

26

People seem to like step by step demonstrations. I have done most of mine on the blank, it just seemed easier at the time, but maybe not the truest. Either way I really like reading about all the different methods and materials.

 

27

I use acrylic scraps from TapPlastics & aluminum carpet threshold metals from work they are thin and light & come in 1"& 1 1/2" and are 12’ long.

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28

Thanks johnmellor and everyone else .        How do you pin or nail the masonite to get your curve John?       I was thinking roofing nails might work?

29

here's a 1/4" x 6' fiberglass pole for 7 bucks plus shipping.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&webTypeId=55&navTitle=ATV+Parts&webCatId=24&prodFamilyId=16603

30

how about a masonite template ?

geez...........i wonder where these guys got the rod idea from anyway?

herb

31

I dunno herb… maybe it was the Masons?  or (even older) Noah?   

32

Since this is Swaylock's, I'm surprised no one has suggested building your own rod. Winding filaments onto mandrels isn't that hard :-)

33

Hi ekim -

I just use tape to hold one end at widepoint and push/pull/flex the other end to connect the dots.  With my free hand I trace around the rod.   My designs aren't accurate to the 10,000th of an inch or anything.  Fine tuning is done with a mini-plane and sandpaper after the curve is cut.  I'm more interested in getting a smooth curve than hitting precise numbers.  Once the template is made I can shift it around on the blank to hit whatever numbers I'm after.

 

34

i have a rather unique fishin'pole called a brim pole.

it collapses down from 14' or so to 4'.

i have lots of assorted flag/support/poles................but my best................

 

.........is 1/2" and 1" thin bands of heat treated spring steel.

i have them in 10 and 12 foot lengths.

for freeforming.............they can't be beat.

herb.

35

Mostly what I like to use is plain old Spaghetti.  Vermicelli is  too thin.  I  go down to Longs(CVC) and by it on sale.  I always watch the paper to make sure I get a deal.  I always buy a few cans of tomato paste or sauce provided it's also on sale.  Boil the noodles and then lay them out on the blank connecting all the dots.  Draw my outline and then whip up some spaghetti and meatballs.    

36

Just smoke a couple fat ones, down a couple shots of Old Grandad , then free hand it !! It will all look good !!

37

Here’s what I’ve been doing for a few years:

I put the measurement dots on the blank (12" from nose, 12" from tail, and wide point somewhere around the middle of the board).

I then push some steel nails about 1/4" outside of the dots on one side of the board (outside means towards the rail of the blank) on those 5 points (the 5 dots are the nose tip, the 12" from nose mark, the wide point mark, the 12" from tail mark, and the tail mark).

Then I take the flexible rod I’m using at the moment (have used steel, wood and plastic composite with a nice bend) and lay it in the inside of those nails I placed. I play with the curve a little bit… When it looks right, I draw the line, usually section by section. If I like the result, it’s time for the next step.

I take out the nails, and I will measure that curve I drew from the stringer to the drawn line in as many points as I deem necessary. That is, beside measuring the 5 points I mentioned before, I try to take several measurements in between those points. Then I use a big metal square and flip all those points to the clean side of the board, and mark them with the pencil. There’s now about 8 or 9 points to connect.

I bring out the nails again and push them into the blank about 1/4" outside of the new dots. I connect the new dots, again using the flexible rod.

Then I imagine I have a very symmetric outline on my blank.

Then I put handsaw or jigsaw to it and fuck it up. That’s one of those skills in which I am seriously deficient. Maybe it’s impatience.

Then I have to call on a veteran shaper friend to help me fix up the outline with a planer and a surform.

I learned this technique watching John Carper’s shaping video.

The shaper friend doesn’t use this technique and laughs it off… but he was pretty impressed with the end result: a totally new outline that looks Gooooooood!

Yup. Cheers.