Fin advice for 9'2"

Im a newbie… in every kind of way really… been surfing about 6 times… lovin it… used to ride a short board in my early teens but never got into it… now 26 and longboarding has stolen my soul.

so… Ive shaped a 9’2" because I couldnt afford to buy a new one and so far so good… I have laminated the decka dn will do the bottom soon but in the interim I want to start thinkig about fin selection… I would like to glass a fin in but Im nt sure where to go/what to expect from different set ups… so below is what Ive shaped and how I want to ride it… any advice some of you guys could give would be gold to a begger…

awsome forum…

Board specs - 18" nose, 22" tail, 22.5" wide and 3"thick… pretty much 50/50 rails for the entire length… concave in the nose (quite deep) and flatl through the middle then very light v through the tail - tail is a diamond tail… Im 60kg and 180cm tall…

I want to nose ride, head dip, spiners, cross step - all the oldschool fun stuff… I like the look of those big drop knee carve turns and Ive tried them a couple of times with varying success on my mates board… nice… so something I can walk around on, trim for speed past the next section and then lay down a big deep carve would be the bomb.

most the waves we find go between 3 and 5ft with the occasional 7-8ft day and are reasonably clean… not hollow… mostly point/reef breaks that roll in…

Any thoughts on what kind of fin I should be looking for and where I should glass it in?

or even a rough guide as to what different fin type/size/positions will mean would be great…

Thanks universe!

Pretty much a standard longboard swept fin around 8.5" for you peaweight.

Why not a BahneBox, so you can mess around with different shapes.

Up to you.

Lee is exactly right. Well, mebbe not about the ‘peaweight’, as i know i could sure stand to lose a few …

if ya don’t know, make it easy to change. that way, you’ll learn not only what fin works but how to put in a fin box. both are useful.

Thanks guys… yeah actually… pea weight is about right lol… no matter what I do I cant put the weight on… but eh… who cares anyhow…

I thought about the fin box idea to start with but I really like the look of the glassed in fins… Im a pattern and mould maker by trade so glassing the board/fins or installing a fin box doesnt seem that daunting to me.

Where is a good place to look for fins?

If I wanted to laminate one (make it from scratch) what kind of laminate schedule would you use to get the right thickness?

one thing I have done wrong (well first board… there had to be something…) is that Ive now decided I want to paint a graphic on it…

seen barefoot adventurer where the guy is riding a board with a big fat dark red stripe down the left of his board… then a couple of shots later there is another board exactly the same but the stripe is on the other side… I want that look… bit fat old school stipe down the left hand side…

oh yeah… the point being I have glassed the deck but not the bottom… obviously no hotcoat yet…

how should/when I paint it?.. I realise that I should have done this before the glass but my original vibe was for a plain white plank… sheesh… decisions decisions…

You can still squeegee a taped off with masking tape color band on the foam.

Doesn’t work as well over lam, or over hot, or over sanded hot, as you gotta sand it making it look uneven.

RainbowFinCo. S of SantaCruz, TrueAmes, Goleta, sorry my mind is watching AllysaMilano right now.

Around 36 layers of 6oz, 5 at a time, over a glass plate for true straight…cut with bandsaw or jig, foil with sander or rough with bastard file by hand. Fastest finish is 220 leading edge in direction of waterflow, and 400 trailing edge same direction.

heh- don’t worry about it, man. being a peaweight patternmaker puts ya well ahead of me in a number of ways. especially fine woodworking skills.

i would suggest the fin box, though. think of it as an adjustable jig rather than a fixed jig. easily modified, etc, etc.

ok, in any event - you can have a quick glimmer through the archives for coloring laminations and cut laps; it’s the best way to get the colored bottom and rails you’re looking for with any degree of uniformity, being as the depth of resin ( and thus color) will be held quite even by the thickness of your lamination coat.

good place to look for fins? well Fins Unlimited will give you a good idea of the various shapes, and bert burger’s articles on fin making have been superb. were you to do it as a solid layup, all laminate, there have been posts and threads on that.

your deck stripe? that you can do as colored resin , tape off and paint the resin in between, pull the tape as the resin just starts to gel, that way the edges ease down a little. if you look at some boards from back in the day, you’ll see they are a bit raised, cos that’s how they did it. then hotcoat all over with clear, though a light sanding or a quick wash with acetone wouldn’t go amiss, just so it’ll be sure of sticking.

hope that’s of use

doc…

Yeah… I think I’ll do that… acetone and tape it off… if I add wax in styrene to it do you think I could make it part of the hot coat?

Ie… do the stripe and let it cure, then mask back over the stripe and do the clear hot coat over the rest of the deck… pull the tape before the clear goes off and then sand the clear and the stripe to the same level?

might try that…

I am so vibed for this…

building boards is unreal… Im dying to paddle out on it for the first time… man that is going to blow my mind… WOOOOHOOO!!!

also, next time around, lam the bottom first…then the deck. as for fins, there is no “right fin” (which is probably why everyone is suggesting the box). different fin styles will completely change the feel of the board, which is why people like the ability to change it out for different conditions…and certainly to be able to change it before you know exactly what style of fin you like best. i like the clean look of a glassed on fin, too…but the way the board handles is more important to me.

I’m around your weight and I’ll just say Get a fin box! and I like to ride 10’ single fin on 9ft2s…

PS… Being light makes noseriding easier…

Put in a box with side fins and have the best of old school and high performance. 10" center box starting at 5 1/2" and your side fin boxes at 16". Now you can play arond with the many variables of fin size and placement. 22" tail seems pretty wide?? is that a typo? Anywhoooo the high performance set up would be 4" side with a 7" center fin playing around with the back fin placement for the wave conditions.

Single fin only, the sky is the limit on what you can do.

Regarding your weight of 60kg, this thing will really float you. Next time you build a board that length, take off 1/2"-5/8" in thinkness, pinch your rails 2/3 back from the nose and sharp rails for the remainder. 2+1 fin setup and report back on how it’s carving. Best of luck on your longboard project.

Warmest aloha,

cp

he knows he likes the classic style and feel…and if a clean look is important to him, he should DEFINITELY leave the sidebites off. anyhow, i realized in my last post that i never really suggested a fin style. personally, i like more of a pivot-style fin, but primarily on boards 9’6"+. for a 9’2", i’d want something with a little more rake to it, but still enough tip and depth to noseride well. browse a few fin catalogs and i’m sure you’ll find something that you like. i like Rainbow Fin Co., Island Fin Design, and True Ames.

I use the fatboy fin from www.fluidfoils.com.au

Ahmm - well, I’d just use sanding resin ( laminating resin plus wax in styrene, basicly ) plus pigment ( get some from your local paint store ) for the stripes. No acetone beforehand. The less it cures before ya do the hotcoat, the better off you’ll be, I think. If the stripe sticks up just a skosh- well, under the wax you’ll never notice it and it is authentic as all hell, y’know? The acetone wash/rub afterwards just serves to dissolve the surface coat of wax so a hotcoat over it will stick. Sanding serves the same purpose, but…

Thing is, if you sand the stripe, you run the risk of getting a wavery edge, cos sanding isn’t all that precise. At least not when I do it. Instead, hit it with a relatively coarse cloth with acetone, scrub a bit and there you are, a good bonding surface all set to go.

hope that’s of use

doc…

Options are the key to success. Glass on the wrong fin in the wrong place and get a crappy style and feel until you chop it off and replace it. I still think no one has answered the question of WHERE to place this single glass on fin yet??? A box with side fins boxes gives easy options and also the opportunity to experiment. That clean look may be cool, but the point of having limited funds for a board would only make sense to bag the clean look and open the door to multiple feels and performance with a simple fin change. If the side fin option is too repulsive to be seen on the beach at least get a center fin box for some fin options. Also a 22" tail??? Please tell me that’s a typing error.

Thanks everyone for your advice!!!

Hawaii - Im stoked you said that! I wanted to be able to knee paddle… us pea weights need all the paddling help we can get… especially when we are getting out water fitness back… so hopefully the 3 inches will keep me floating nicely and I might be able to out paddle/glide some of the other guys… I have offset it a little with a heavier than necessary glass job - not too full on though (2 x 6oz deck and 1 x 6 0z bottom)…

I think I will do the fin box for the center and see how it goes… if Im not happy I can add the side bites later down the track for more carve…

and yea… that was a typo on the tail width…

basically I copied the shape from a friends robert august wingnut noserider - the surftech wood vaneer job… just made some changes to the tail because I really like diamond tails… the rails are probably a bit full but there we’ll see how it goes… again the knee paddleing thing was in the back of my mind.

anyway… even if its a log I’ll still love it…

Doc - I now get what yu mean with the acetone etc… I was thinking you meant for prep… which I will have to do anyhow because Im not going to get to finish the glass job for at least 10 days and there will probably be crap all over it by then…

Another Q - Why do you usually do the bottom first and then the deck when glassing?

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heavier than necessary glass job - not too full on though (2 x 6oz deck and 1 x 6 0z bottom)…

that’s the lightest i’d ever do on a longboard…and on top of that i’d add a deck and a tail patch…especially on a board for a more traditional style.

Soulstice is talking words of wisdom here!

Does anyone know what kind of ride the hatcht style fins give?

Dont really like em… just interested…

saw one here…

http://www.the-fin-guy.com/FinBlanks.html