John,
I think I see what you mean. I attached another quick and dirty drawing. Would something like this work?
The 1-1/4" number is just an example. I don’t know the right distance.
Gee ----------------Talk about overkill! Kokuas method is the most communly used. A large adjustable square/bevel(aka squangle) will reach from stringer to rail, therefore compensating for the vee and concave. If you have shaped your board accuratly both sides of the stringer there should be no problem getting your cant the same on both sides. Eye-balling it is primarily to make sure you haven’t made some noticeable mistake or moved the angle of the square somehow during the process. If you were really into eye-balling it, I guess a darkly painted wall such as was used in the JC film would be of benefit . I understand what you are referring to regarding measurement from base to tip(ie differance in inches etc), but do not see the need for such a concern unless you were making several boards of identical design and shape. I most often use a small adjustable square. I can set my square off a finished board if I need to , but usually leave it set at about 4*. What used to drive me nuts when I first got back into shaping was accuratly towing in the side fins. But thats another subject with a whole set of funny stories in and of itself. I used to be pretty bad at settin’ fins but after listening to you guys : I have decided I am pretty darn good at it. McDing
The 1-1/4" number is just an example. I don’t know the right distance.
That’s exactly what I was trying to get at with the original question - a workable range for template designs. I’d probably make a few for various tail widths and different cants… possibly an adjustable model? Maybe one with toed in end panels?
The supports and means of attachment could be something as simple as disposable double sided peel and stick foam tape.
For toe-in, a different jig has definitely worked out for me but an adjustable combination toe in/cant jig might prove useful in production situations…
http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/detail_page.cgi?ID=515
Might take longer just making the jig if only for an occasional fin setter. I know I’ve spent a lot of time dicking around with tape and measuring tools when doing fin placement and setting and I’m just a hobbyist.
I “cant” even finish reading this with out laughing and saying, didn’t anyone read John’s simple request??? he just wants some numbers to “look” at/think about… never mind the bottom contour issues.
The funny thing is, to me anyway, is I’ve been thinking about -since my fin boxes don’t adjust for cant - making fins w/different cant in the bases, so I could check it out… my last “small/mush” board had tones of cant @ 20 degrees, think it help “lift” off the bottom/around sections… but, it held/pulled up the face TaylorO
Hi Taylor -
Thanks for that. So please, what were the measurements?
I don’t have my board/tape handy. Later. Taylor
A quick look at a 4 1/2" straight edge, off 90 degrees by 7 and it’s only about 1/2", so I think the guesses at well over an inch are gonna be off, but if you did that off the angled “panel” at the edge fin then it might add up to more.
I feel like kookin’ out and saying, since we surf from edge to edge - down the line, in an asymetrical way - I am not convinced of the need to have both edge fins exactly the same. In fact, I think being able to adjust everything on each fin and working our asymetrical set ups for front/back, point/reef/etc. would be the way to go.
IE------------PROBOX