First of all, THANK YOU to this entire fine community that has lifted me through the procedural pitfalls of building my first 5 boards. Ive spent countless hours researching the forums in order to figure things out. You Rock! I feel an immense sense of gratitude for all the hard work, effort, and sharing that shines through in this forum. Thank you for spreading the stoke.
A 10.5 finbox floated sideways on me the other day, despite what i thought was ample weight. i routed it out and in the process pushed the router into the glass past the desired edgeline in 2 spots.(the template slipped). a semicircular router bite about 3/16+ wide one side, and a wavy side.
Can I just laminate glass, epoxy resin and fill the abnormal voids with epoxy/cabosil mix?
Can I make it look more deliberate and widen the boxhole evenly and place the finbox surrounded by layers of cloth and cab/resin mix surrounding cloth/box? i was thinking of adding a contrasting color.
Materials .Poly blank,Resin Research quick kick. Color work. 10.5’’ finbox
THANKS Again! I’ll post pics of what you guys enabled me to make asap.
You can make it wider, but you have to pour the epoxy in 1/8" layers or it will get too hot. I would fill it in two layers, first poly lam, second, poly sand. Color the last layer. Sand down the box and laminate over it with the epoxy.
Or you can pick up a piece of balsa that will be a bit longer and wider than your fin-box, route out the bottom of your board to fit it (I would strongly advise the use of a home-made jig to guide the router, this time). Glue the balsa piece with epoxy, then re-route for the fin-box inside the balsa. That will look professionally done on purpose for added strength.
Another trick that might arguably be done on purpose anyway is to route a single channel on either side of the box channel and resin in a pair of 'mini stringers.' I install mine so they extend beyond the ends of the box. They are roughly 1/4" wide and 12" or 13" long. I mainly extend the mini stringers past the front end of the box since it's likely to take the most impact if you hit anything.
A router is one of those tools that can F-up a board in a hurry. I strap the board down, carefully align and secure my jig and generally treat the tool with a ton of respect.
Like Pete says, add a little resin one step at a time to avoid excess heat.
I hand sanded the box hole so that it is even and parallel except for the divets on the left side. With 5 6oz pieces of cloth the box fits tight less the router bite divets. can i just fill the indents(divets) with cab/resin, then saturate the glass with resin and install the finbox, followed by a hotcoat?
Would there be to much heat generated?
I have silmar poly resin and Resin Research Quick kick available. The board is hot coated laminated with RR epoxy
Pete C . are you suggesting filling the hole entirely and than rerouting? or, are you suggesting filling the space around the box with poly lam, then poly sand and then a layer of epoxy saturated cloth? Im feeling pretty daft.
My plywood jig seems to be harder to secure on a v and eventually wants to slide, any ideas. Thanks for all your help ill have to check out the lokbox jig
just figuring out how this forum works. The box hole is now even less two router bites. (thought i could even the bites them out with cab/resin/color) the box fits snug with 5 6oz pieces of cloth. would this generate too much heat… maybe with poly an a lower temp day and lower cat %? Would there be a good bond between the epoxy cloth on the bottom of the board surrounding and the poly resin?
are you suggesting filling the box hole and then routing it out, or filling the hole with the finbox in place and then after sanding the box flush hotcoating or laminating a piece of cloth with epoxy? thanks PeteC