Finding Longboard Waves

How do you do it? im talking real longboard waves, waist to chest, clean, and musssssssssshy. for nose riding. waves suitable for traditional loggin. malibu or noosa style.

Ive traveled to several central american countries, and to various parts of europe, and apart from maybe bairratz i havent really found any true log waves. i see videos and pics all of the time of people on log waves, buti cant ever stumble across them myself.

its just so much easier to find a head high textured point or reef somewhere then something small and clean over a reef, something truly magical.

i watch videos like children of the sun and singlefin yellow, all with really great waves in them. and i get frustrated because ive never surfed waves that perfect in my entire life, and the videos make portray it as them being all over the place. every single wave in children of the sun is offshore and clean. neither of those videos feature a single close out.

what am i doing wrong. i need guidance.

build yourself a time machine ??

[bear in mind …in 1965-69 when children of the sun was filmed , a lot of those north coast and queensland point breaks were uncrowded .

…NOW 40 years on …they’re NOT ! ]

but I’m sure I’ve seen south and central american and mexican point breaks being ridden by mals in movies like ’ the seedling’ and ‘sprout’ ?

ben

Every known break prior to '67/'68 WAS a Longboard break. From Pipeline to Malibu, that’s what you rode. Nose riding was something you did at certain moments on certain waves, not the entire wave. They are all Longboard waves. So go enjoy.

keep lookn they are right under your nose! hahaha think point point point and click your heals togther 3 times and poof your are in the middle of 200 people at the 'BU

go to new zealand.

Dawn patrol or evening glass. ‘Longboarding waves’ are all about clean more than size or shape.

Quote:

Nose riding was something you did at certain moments on certain waves, not the entire wave. They are all Longboard waves.

I’ve been getting used to my new monster board. I was having troubles getting used to the size. After applying this advice I started being able to ride the board much better!