Thanks again for the excellent resource here. If a blank has been finish sanded and cleaned up with a foampad backed screen, now I’ve got to remove any rise in the stringer(above foam) with my hand plane. How do you remove wood without ‘ANY’ abrasion to foam and how much abrasion is acceptable/un-noticeable under resin and glass. Sometimes I’ll spend alot of extra time with that stringer so there’s no marks there !!! Thank You…
Thanks again for the excellent resource here. If a blank has been finish > sanded and cleaned up with a foampad backed screen, now I’ve got to remove > any rise in the stringer(above foam) with my hand plane. How do you remove > wood without ‘ANY’ abrasion to foam and how much abrasion is > acceptable/un-noticeable under resin and glass. Sometimes I’ll spend alot > of extra time with that stringer so there’s no marks there !!! Thank > You… If you plan to ply your interest in shaping, think of how the tools are attacking work area. I had allways noticed, when I first started shaping that the corners of the hand plane would scar the foam. In 1969 I bought a new Stanley spoke shave and reground the blade with a slight arc the length of the blade, this solved the corners of the blade catching the foam. With a blade designed like this, several consectutive passes can be made leaving the stringer lower than the foam.
Brilliant. Patent it and make millions.>>> If you plan to ply your interest in shaping, think of how the tools are > attacking work area. I had allways noticed, when I first started shaping > that the corners of the hand plane would scar the foam. In 1969 I bought a > new Stanley spoke shave and reground the blade with a slight arc the > length of the blade, this solved the corners of the blade catching the > foam. With a blade designed like this, several consectutive passes can be > made leaving the stringer lower than the foam.