I know this question has been asked recently, but I cannot locate the thread. It is a 8" fun/mini longboard. Doing a 2+1 fin setup. Any recommendation to were to set the side bite and the box? I was thinking the front edge of side bites set at 16" inches from the tail. Set the back edge of the biters 1 1/2" from the rail, with a 1/4" toe in. Any tips appreciated.
Measure fins to the back edges. The main fin goes 5"-6" from stern. 5" for stability, or 6" for turning. The side bites go 12.5" from stern (up the stringer), and 1.25" from rail. This setup makes for shorter turn radii. Set the side bites up to 14.5" forward for stability and projection. Your .25" side bite toe in makes for tight turns, but adds drag. You can toe them in only 1/8" for less drag. Cant the side bites 3-5 degrees each.>>> I know this question has been asked recently, but I cannot locate the > thread. It is a 8" fun/mini longboard. Doing a 2+1 fin setup. Any > recommendation to were to set the side bite and the box? I was thinking > the front edge of side bites set at 16" inches from the tail. Set the > back edge of the biters 1 1/2" from the rail, with a 1/4" toe > in. Any tips appreciated.
Measure fins to the back edges. The main fin goes 5"-6" from > stern. 5" for stability, or 6" for turning. The side bites go > 12.5" from stern (up the stringer), and 1.25" from rail. This > setup makes for shorter turn radii. Set the side bites up to 14.5" > forward for stability and projection.>>> Your .25" side bite toe in makes for tight turns, but adds drag. You > can toe them in only 1/8" for less drag. Cant the side bites 3-5 > degrees each. Thanks Noodle! That is exactly what I needed.
Noodle, Thought I’d jump on this thread while I had the chance: What’s the best way to precisely measure degrees for the Cant?
Noodle,>>> Thought I’d jump on this thread while I had the chance: What’s the best > way to precisely measure degrees for the Cant? (mua)deeb, Use the wierding way… uh, that’s another issue. I only make a few boards, so I can take time. I tiangulate and add the offset distance on top of what would be a cubic block of foam. I cut out a fairing notch for the fin and box. Then I tape the fin and foam block in place. Then I untape the fin, apply resin, and retape it. I’m not near my scientific calculator right now, but the calculation would go something like this. Draw right angles on the side of a foam block. If you want 3 degrees of cant, multiply the arctangent of three degrees by the height of the block. Then add that number to the right angle mark on top of the block. Drop a new line to that mark and cut along it. Hope this helps.
Thanks. I … uh … think I understand. FYI, I wasn’t the best in geometry class, so I’m jogging my memory for “arctangent.” Basic Pythagorean theorem use is about as technical as I could get. I know it would take forever to explain, so that’s okay, I can look it up. I thought you could somehow just use a protractor or something. I guess it’s not that simple? Also, how big is the foam cube that you use? I think that might give me a better visual. I’ve only made single-fin boards, and I’m on my first tri-fin setup now, so I’m just trying to get it all straight. Thanks again…deeb…
Thanks. I … uh … think I understand. FYI, I wasn’t the best in > geometry class, so I’m jogging my memory for “arctangent.” Basic > Pythagorean theorem use is about as technical as I could get. I know it > would take forever to explain, so that’s okay, I can look it up.>>> I thought you could somehow just use a protractor or something. I guess > it’s not that simple? Also, how big is the foam cube that you use? I think > that might give me a better visual.>>> I’ve only made single-fin boards, and I’m on my first tri-fin setup now, > so I’m just trying to get it all straight.>>> Thanks again…deeb… You’re welcome. I’m posting from way away from calculator and shop. Maybe somebody else can work out the opposite side of a 5 degree angle with a 6 inch leg. Then you can interpolate2, 3, and 4 degrees from there.
Noodle,>>> Thought I’d jump on this thread while I had the chance: What’s the best > way to precisely measure degrees for the Cant? Noodle, I have a couple of adjustable bevel squares that I use to set up cant. But I always check them for what looks right. No matter how accurate the shape seems and the fins are set mechanically, one will always need to be tweeked to make it look “perfect”. Still trying to get it right after all these years? http://www.JimtheGenius@aol.com
I always "eye ball it"first(set by eye only) then go back with two different types of measuring devices.1=PROTRACTOR…2=A AJUSTABLE ANGLE.Use the a.angle to get your setting then double check it with the protractor…Like Jim said it’s rare that both fins set completely even to the bottom of the board.Trained eyes will give you a better setting,everytime!Herb.
I use straight lam. resin NO FILLERS!I found that it is the best/strongest bond…but the fin don’t stand-up to good on it’s own.You could use hot melt(gluegun) ,but it’s a false bond…how about 5min epoxy or superglue…again mechanical bonds not chemical bonds.So this led me back to good ol resin…What I do to keep placement yet still allow for ajustment is to use 1/2" masking tape. 2 STRIPS PER FIN long enough to make it to the center of the board,over the fin ,and to rap around the rail.ONE STRIP; is placed on top of the fin slightly behind the top center.2nd strip is about 2" up from the bottom/front of the fin.This allows me to craddle the fin for a firm setting ,but still allowing the fins to be ajusted…Just don’t tape it to the fin ,the fin should just pivot under the tape,the tape’s taunteness from being tape out to the center of the board to rails is where you get your holding power…try playing with it first dry…and cut your strips before you start your tacking.Herb
I use straight lam. resin NO FILLERS!I found that it is the best/strongest > bond…but the fin don’t stand-up to good on it’s own.You > could use hot melt(gluegun) ,but it’s a false bond…how about 5min > epoxy or superglue…again mechanical bonds not chemical bonds.So > this led me back to good ol resin…What I do to keep placement > yet still allow for ajustment is to use 1/2" masking tape. 2 STRIPS > PER FIN long enough to make it to the center of the board,over the fin > ,and to rap around the rail.ONE STRIP; is placed on top of the fin > slightly behind the top center.2nd strip is about 2" up from the > bottom/front of the fin.This allows me to craddle the fin for a firm > setting ,but still allowing the fins to be ajusted…Just don’t tape it > to the fin ,the fin should just pivot under the tape,the tape’s taunteness > from being tape out to the center of the board to rails is where you get > your holding power…try playing with it first > dry…and cut your strips before you start your > tacking.Herb Yo Herb, Nothing like plain ol’ lam resin. Had a whole series of fins fail in the late 80’S, the little cups that I was using to mix my batch in were waxed. The lam and catylst were leaching the wax off the inside of the cups and waxing the batches. All of the fins for a week broke free from the bases during the sanding! I always like to cut the bases with a ever so slight a concave, the front edge and the rear touch the board, while the center has a small gap uinder it. This keeps the fin from spinning while taping it down or moving later. The gaps also fills with resin, bonding underneath somewhat better. I haven’t liked the glue gun method, but I see it used plenty. http://www.JimtheGenius@aol.com
Yo Herb, Nothing like plain ol’ lam resin. Had a whole series of fins fail > in the late 80’S, the little cups that I was using to mix my batch in were > waxed. The lam and catylst were leaching the wax off the inside of the > cups and waxing the batches. All of the fins for a week broke free from > the bases during the sanding! I always like to cut the bases with a ever > so slight a concave, the front edge and the rear touch the board, while > the center has a small gap uinder it. This keeps the fin from spinning > while taping it down or moving later. The gaps also fills with resin, > bonding underneath somewhat better. I haven’t liked the glue gun method, > but I see it used plenty. …concaved base,HUH,THANKYOU,for the great tip!Herb.
Deeb: I use an adjustable angle/square that you would find in a cabinet maker’s tool box. Plastic handle, wingnut that allows a steel blade to slide and tilt at the wingnut axis. Set angle with a protractor or off another “magic” board setup. I also use foam blocks or masonite templates about 4"x3" cut to different angles. So, set the fin, tape it in place using a template of your choice and recheck it with the adjustable square and eyeball for perfection. Lately I’ve been using modeller’s clay (ala FCS) to hold fins in place, just be very careful with the residue that is left behind. TS
Yo,Jim…I, TOO, happened upon the slightly concave base “trick” a while back, and it also seems to work pretty good for me! By the way, I fully agree about the lammo tackdown as the best way to go. You can’t beat it! I’ve tried the glue gun, but found this method to be highly inferior - despite the adjacent layup. Just doesn’t hold up for me - strength wise. (no party “refinning” your boards…if it isn’t to change how they ride!). Funny about the wax in your mixing containers…same/same, brah! I use to stroll down Ke’eaumoku in search of handouts at all the fastfood chicken joints - in my youth - to get unwaxed chicken buckets!!! Pays to have nice girlfriends who will feed your unusual habits. BY THE WAY…what kind of set ups do you boys have TO KEEP YOUR FINS IN PLACE?! I’ve seen some pretty elaborate rigs! thanks, T.
I didn’t really read all the posts on this subject but I use a method that is very simple. Measure the dimension of the base of the fins as opposed to the tips of the fins. Usually about 1 inch to about 1 1\8 inch. With all the diffrent bottom contours it’s sometimes difficult to use degrees off of the bottom. aloha