My last coupke weeks was a project of a was a hollow wood board that was built for a friend who has never surfed before. Whiile building the curves and rails out of wood was nearly as fun as trying to design the funnest board I could, here’s what I ended up with. It’s 6’8" long, 13" wide and 17.7" one foot from the back, respectively, and the entire thing is a very thick board. I put a hip of about 1/2" in the top of the deck, 24" back from the nose, thinking that the addtional rocker will be good for the conficdence of not purling. On the deck and just past the hip, I made the board with a concave (about 1/2" deep and continuine all the way to the tail), with the thought that she’ll be able to feel where her feet are. From the peak of the hip in the top deck, the engineer in me couldn’t help but to take her measurements, figure out the optimal paddling plane of the board (with a quick .xls program that gave the crnertner of bouyandcy, so hopefully when she grabs onto ose of the board, she’ll be in a perfect position for optimal paddlling speed. The board has 32" of flat on the bottom, with a smooth and flat rocker that comes up to 7" at the bow, amd 2//5" st ther center of the tail. Tshe board is 4" thick at the hip in the deck, and tapering to about 2.5" towards the tail. My friend is only a buck ten sow I doubt she’ll be able to duck-dive he beast, so I added a couple of nice grips where I think the best placd to grab for a turtle roll would be.
The tail of this board is like nothing I’ve ever seen before. It goes from totally flat to a concave of nearly 1" over thw last 16" of the board. I figurd what called the Reyunolds number for this flow, and at lweast from thje math, thinx hzxhoul d ;zmionzdf Whow knows?
I f it were full up to me, I’m put on qauads,
