Thanks, not worried about colour. Board will be painted.
Fer cryin’ out loud Huck, doncha got any Irish friends?? Sodabread is like mother’s milk to a Mick. A Yank can say Wonderbread and get the same import, although the two are very disparate from one another. Getting ready to break out the old family recipe for Paddy’s day coming up. Slainte`!!
Most center boxes go in after you laminate the board, but if it is a sealed type, they go in under glass, when you sand them flush it opens the slot. I use the open slot boxes, so I laminate the board first. I usually do a little fill coat so I have something to sand and not burn through the glass when I sand the box flush. A patch over the box after it’s sanded flush will make it stronger.
…hello, you say: “…not worry about the color due the board will be painted” regarding those holes.
If you paint the board (the PU) the filled stuff will show different than the rest of the board and most times look worst than unfilled and with a clear lamination. The ONLY possibility that you have is to do a pigmented color or colors directly in the lamination; however I really do not recommend this method to you right now.
heat / steam has been used in the past to expand crushed foam in a small ding on an unglassed blank. Search the archives, and proceed with caution, but if the foam was crushed in on your dings, it might be an option to consider.
Bless all here.
Steam might do the trick, clothes iron and a clean white damp rag or paper towel, if the foam is dented in.
If the foam is missing, carefully glue a small patch piece back in being careful to not get glue on the finished parts of the blank.
If you have your rail bones, you can practice both techniques before trying them on the project.
Cheers, was maybe going to paint it after glassing. Just to hide the yellowey foam.
Dont really care what it looks like to be honest and pretty certain that a pigment or resin tint for a first time glass job is not wise as reverb says.
Long live swaylocks
So, checking out the resin options has thrown polyester back into the mix. 3kg of Epoxy is going to set me back $120 whereas i can get 5kg of polyester for $25?
There is a cheaper epoxy called Axson Epolam 2017 but its a general purpose epoxy rather than a low viscosity laminating epoxy.
Could i just go for polyester? I will be glassing in my detached garage.
Is the blank PU or XPS? I thought your earlier post said the blank was home insulation foam? I could be wrong, but I think you mentioned both. If so XPS would require you use epoxy for the lam.
Yes, good memory and good catch by cjohnnymac.
Be sure to identify the foam type exactly before buying resin.
Color is not always the give-away. I have seen yellow XPS and yellowish PU insulation boards at the same building supply store.
EPS and XPS are the same chemistry, one is ‘Expanded’ Polystyrene (beadboard) and the other is ‘eXtruded’.
Thanks for checking but the foam is actually pretty much Pu. We have a different brand of insulation over here which I more common.
Its technically called pir.
That foam is usually a little heavier than surfboard foam. I haven’t tried it, but I want to. Craigslist often has pallets of it, but I don’t want to buy that much.
If you can find someone with poly resin, take a small scrap piece and test the resin. I’ve had some foam that I thought would handle Poly resin, but in the tests, they melted. Having the same problem with spray glues for foam. The can says OK on foams, but it will melt EPS or XPS.
Cool will do thanks. I assume a half mask with organics and gas filter will be ok to use for poly resin?
I use the half mask and filters for paints for poly glassing.
Still waiting for a chance to glass the board as every weekend here recently has been very wet and cool and ill be going it in the garage with door open. Got all the gear ready so chomping at the bit.
If glassing with polyester resin does the temperature need to remain high after it has started to gel? If I heat the garage but crack the door open how long should I keep it warm for?
Also will a damp day affect it?
Foiled myself a set of quad fins from some birch ply. Watched a few videos and as I had a scrap piece of glass thought that was a good surface to lay the up on.
Used 2bits of 6oz either side of each fin and epoxy resin.
Put them in the hotpress overnight after glassing and came to look at them this afternoon.
The whole lot is welded to the glass and even chiselling smashed the glass. I binned the lot rather than slice myself to bits trying to remove the broken glass. Carnage lol.
Moral of the story use some release agent or wax even on glass. Unfortunately I didn’t see that on any videos.
Hi Soda, sorry to hear about binning the fins. Can you tell us some more about your hot press? Vacuum and heat?
I’ve tried bagging fins, now I just do a side at a time open air and post cure the next day.
Just normal hand lay up. Sorry hot press is what you would call an airing cupboard? Just the warm cupboard your water heater is in. It wad just the warmest place in the house.
If you were doing ply fins that were to be glassed on would you glass them first with 2x 6oz and then go for another 2x 6oz when attaching them?
Cheers, everyday is a school day. That’s what my buddy said when I sent him the pic of the broken glass pane. Haha
Hi Soda, thanks for the explanation. We use hydraulic presses at work so I got curious. I use fin boxes so I do not have info on glassed-on fins.