First board EPS delam :/

It is by volume, I don’t know why I didn’t pay attention to that before. I am from now on gonna mix with my new ratio cups. 

Someone earlier in the thread said something about not mixing more than 400-500g at the time. I did 1.3 liters and the remaining 200-300 grams that was left in the bucket when i was doing my lap did start to smoke so I had to put it outside :slight_smile:

Okey so I sliced the bubbles and let them dry the whole night, sanded the areas down and spackled them even with micro balloons and epoxy, sanded and laminated with two new layers of 6oz. Sanded and coated.

Routed the fin box out so that the board could “breath”

Waited a couple of days and started to sand the deck fill coat with 80/120 grit paper on a soft pad, used speed 3 / 6. Was gonna continue the coming day! To my horror there were now 2 new delaminations on the deck!! What the F… am I doing wrong? I was moving the sander around all the time and used almost no pressure at all.

Did the same repairs on these new bubbles and today around 26 hours after there are 2 small spots in the middle of the delams that are soft and must be reacting with something so I once again cut it open and hollowed out a pocket in the foam to be sure to remove anything that could cause this.

 

I wiped the board down with denaturated ethanol before i did the fill coat, could that cause these delaminations?   

In California construction grade EPS foam has a 10% error factor. Maybe someone in the industry can explain it better. On a Low Tech level I learned that my 2 pound foam was much closer to 1.5 or 1.75… we have very good Surfboard EPS foam in Cal… but what is sold as 2 pound is really 1.75 or 1.5.

So for starters I think you have 1.5 foam or lower. Also spackle is not a cure all. It can be 72 degee F for three days in a row and I can still deal with off gassing. spackle is only used to fill small voids. no wipe downs . Dry and clean is best.

I confess…I’m a spackle user…My house will be 70 to 85 degrees F for the next 5 months. very dry, no rain…

New builder, and you walk away from your job ???

 

stingray: I have no experience with EPS but it seems very firm and tight, and did not have any problems with beads that people shaping lower graded EPS have. I will try to seal next board with epoxy and micro balloons.

If the foam I got is 1.5, is it unusable? I can get what they in Sweden call as S300 EPS as well, the one I am using now is S200.  Or just fu.k it and order some expensive US blanks from Seabase in France. 

I’ve really liked the process of building so I would love to continue :slight_smile:

yorky

Not sure I get what you mean? :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: As you’ve probably noticed English is not my mother tongue.

 

Thought I’d jump in here. 1st) elves did not run into your garage overnight and fuck up your board, your board out gassed and bubbled, your should try to glass when the temp is falling not rising. bring the blank outside… Let it heat up a bit then bring it inside. Shitty lose bead foam is you culprit. 2nd) RR is a very forgiving mix, if you get close to 2/1 it is fine, it will kick just fine . So if you are like 100/45 or whatever …trust me it is fine. Greg made it designed for idiots.   If you have sticky spots its from not mixing well.  Use a big paint stick and fold the epoxy, not whip the epoxy. Scrape the edges of the bucket and get the shit off of the bottom. Don’t use an old screw driver, use something with width. 3rd) the spot is on the deck… Just slice it open, inject some epoxy, put plastic wrap,over it and weight it down. Sand it flush before hot coating… Boom done . If you worried pot a 2 or 4 oz patch over it and sand it flush. The nice thing about epoxy is you can add glass and do repairs at any stage of the game.

 

 

 

RR is a very forgiving mix, if you get close to 2/1 it is fine, it will kick just fine . So if you are like 100/45 or whatever …trust me it is fine. Greg made it designed for idiots.   If you have sticky spots its from not mixing well.  Use a big paint stick and fold the epoxy, not whip the epoxy. Scrape the edges of the bucket and get the shit off of the bottom.

 

Bingo.  It’s all about mixing.  I’ve been doing epoxy work well before I was building surfboards as a garage/hobbyist.  Here is the acid test:  I regulary reuse plastic mixing buckets; I just pop out the old hardended epoxy.  What I notice, and what remains, is that there are a few bits or drops of softer/sticky epoxy clinging to the sides of the container.  Those are remnants of poorly mixed epoxy and I mix like crazy.  I mean, I put a clock on my mixing.  Fin box amounts I’ll stir for 1.5 minutes, 2 minues for hot/gloss coats and and 2.5 minutes for lams.  More volume = more mixing and I think I’m developing a ‘Popeye’ right forearm becasue of this mixing technique.  And use a wide stiring stick like a paint mixing stick, as resinhead mentioned.

So examine the bucket after mixing.  If you have more than a few drops of soft epoxy you need to mix longer and better.

 

resinhead / gunkie ;) I am also pretty sure there were no elves in my garage.  Understand me right, I am only trying to learn from my mistakes. The board looks alright now after some repairing. 

I am using broad wooden sticks from the hospital, used by the doctors to check your throat? 

Just laminated my second board and mixed it really well without trying to make bubbles in the bucket. I will do the deck tomorrow night and drill a small hole and put a small straw where the leash plug will be.

Been doing all my epoxy work in the late afternoon / night.

Someone said earlier in the thread not to mix too big amounts of resin at the time. So what is too much when it comes to epoxy?

I mean if I am doing a 9"6 longboard and want the same color? 

 

Bought some really nice 2:1 mixing cups in different sizes but was unsure if I could reuse them or throw them away. 

Here is the deck, there are two patched repairs as you can see it was hard to match the colors with a new swirl. 

Nice recovery.