well im ight change the template but should i keep the tail at 10 inches? i thought my board had a pretty nice shape to it, keep in mind it isnt a going to be a fish. il look at it again and see the curve.
well i just looked at the deck and bottom and took a picture of the deck aswell,it look consentric to me :S i used a small wooden stick bent to get the curve. are you saying i should take more off the nose and tail?
i dont want to go taking off to much then i cant put it back lol
Okay iv decided today I’m going to put a wooden stick on my template again from the tip to edge of tail and do one consentric rounded bend and have the bigest part of the Bend touching the edge to maximize roundness 
we will see how it works I hope it turns out well. And should I make my tail narrower? It’s 10 inches wide my widest point is 21 I think
Sounds like you’re on track with the planer. I wouldn’t be too worried about getting the top perfectly flat. You need to pull down the sides when you profile it. Be concerned about the thickness down the center.
The bottom will need to be even, and then when you get to the rail thickness and profile, that needs to be pretty even.
I would pull the curve of the nose down more on the outline. The nose looks way to wide up front then there’s a big flat section. The outline should be a smoother curve going into the middle section of the board. If you are worried about having more foam up front, you can do that by keeping the thickness up under your chest.
Eventually, you’ll need to get a nice small (tiny) hand plane to work the stringer down. A 22" block of wood with sandpaper will be enough to shape, but it’s going to be a lot of work to get the thickness down the center where the stringer is just right. Some guys use a disc sander after they use the planer to smooth out the blank.
I would suggest watching the video on youtube of Terry Martin shaping. He’s been doing it for years, but he says he still doesn’t feel confident with the planer. There’s a lot of video on youtube of shaping, so check it out.
SharkCountry wrote: I would pull the curve of the nose down more on the outline. The nose looks way to wide up front then there’s a big flat section. The outline should be a smoother curve going into the middle section of the board. If you are worried about having more foam up front, you can do that by keeping the thickness up under your chest.
My eye(s) sees the same exact thing.
Yet, you are the cook Noob and it’s your kitchen.
noob
use a fishing pole to get a nice gradual curve on that nose.
thank you for the fishing pole idea all i did today was smooth out totally all of my laning markes and bumps with 26 and 60 grit sand paper. so no need for pics really. im going to check for crooked sections and the totall flatness tommorow and then try to continue power planing down another 3/8ths of an inch atleast. i was wondering instead of going with the usualy planing patern go from outside work to middle then switch side and do it again. i though id get a more accurate line by cutting straight down the center with the plane and working my way out on both sides? im not sure just though i might get a flatter plane ^^
ya knock the point off the nose it will look better.
maybe round off the tail corners like a squash tail
and glass that sucker up, well,
after you finnish the rails,ha ha,
have fun!
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i though id get a more accurate line by cutting straight down the center with the plane and working my way out on both sides?
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The motor housing or belt drive will get in the way. What you're doing will work; take a set of passes from outline to stringer (left and right side), block out, take another set of passes, block again.... By the third set of passes your planer work should start to get better and you won't have to block as much. Pros don't have to block at all between passes. Have you watched vid of a real shaper yet? Don't scrub on spots with the block, try for long smooth strokes.
Hi Everyone
Like Huckleberry said before I love these threads of making boards...you get so many good tips. I like the idea of drawing the template on both sides so that you can judge if the saw cut is square. about to make my second board myself and feel now inspired to post the step by step pics for others to comment on....keep up the pics and passion !
Hey noob don't get tied down on small details.
I used to see the shaper for Zuma Jay pushing boards that were totally different rail configurations side to side lengths and tail configurations!
You will go nuts trying to make your first board perfect.
Do your best!!
I will tell you anything that floats and paddles well will work and look at all the guys shaping flat planks of wood and ripping on them.
Also look up the Orange thread you can always sand it all down and reshape it.
My first board was something to behold almost flat rocker pulled in tail super sharp rails in the back going to very blocky rails in the front.
It had dips and wobbles a terrible looking glass job and I over shaped the deck so it dented real easy.
I worked on the fins for years grinding them off and putting them back on and it worked with every fin configuration I tried.
It looked like Frankenstein by the time I was done!
My friends teased me and told me it was a piece of crap but I not only made it work I surfed it fairly well none of them could surf it worth a damn which made me laugh even more because they all thought they were good surfers.
It was hard to paddle but was the fastest quirkiest board I have ever owned.
I shaped it to surf one and only one wave the small point break at Zeros a small point/reef beach break in Malibu.
I had it almost twenty years and recently sold it at a garage sale for almost as much as it cost me to build it.
So do your best shape it, glass it, ride it proudly, learn from your mistakes and most of all have fun!
My only other bit of advise is to have someone to help you glass it because no one ever mixes the resin right the first time and nothing sucks worse then having it kick half way through the process.
If you lived in San Diego i would have been happy to help my glass jobs while still ugly have never failed me.
Did I mention they are ugly?
thank yo ufor the advice 
so today i took down the nose abit i think the shape look salright overall now, there are no flat spots i checked with a straight edge the lighting decieves you and me, i think im going stick with this shape now hopefully it works well who knows till i try it out.
round off the nose some and it would improve the looks and professionalism of your board greatly
explain what you mean by round off the nose, like take away the point?
yes and maybe more, its a mini mal, round the nose.
cant’ explain much more
oh so its a mini mal? XD hmmm okay il look at there nose shapes ^^ thank you
edit: im not sure yet if i want to round the nose, i think im finish planning the bottom and sand off the shell on the deck befor i go and do that to think it through
i dont think its exaclt a mini mal my tail is to wide, but im still going to look at the nose shape ^^
Outline is much improved, way to go! Time for some planer practice on the bottom, by the time you get to rail bands and deck you'll be much more comfortable. If you haven't already, read this: http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1018545
thank you iv read that now :), was wondering about a question what kind of rails should i put on a quad fin’d flat bottom for smalish to 6ft waves? like 50/50 all the way except a sharpish edge on the last 18 or so inches of tail? usually abit choppy where i surf
Since you have plenty of foam and planing surface, I'd advise a soft 60/40 rail for most of the board. Hard edge tucked under in tail. Try to do most of the rail shaping in the banding stage, where you can ''read'' the bands to get symmetry and the desired profile.
soft on top or soft down low 60 of the rail on top? and 40 below or other way around? do you mind maybe drawing the just of the tukced hard edge and 60/40 in paint ? im sorry im such a noob haha, so todays progress so far is i finished the bottom sanded it all abit so its nice and flat and planed it abit more. i then fliped over to the deck and sanded away the shell and all the ripples to make a nice smooth board my middle thicknes is currently at 3 and about 1/4 thick. il have pictures after i have a shower, the next step i believe is banding the rails? right? 
Well, I don't know anything about ''paint'', but you should be able to find some rail profile diagrams somewhere on here. 60/40 is top/bottom, a slightly turned down rail. Hold out your hand with thumb and fingers about 2.5'' apart - what fits in that hand is about 60/40. If you have foiling and bottom finished you're ready to do rail bands. Is the board thinned at tips yet?