well here it goes!! i just glued up part of my paulownia Alaia. i got a 16x11.5" piece of primmed fingerjointed wood. I had it cut in half so i had two 8x11.5" pieces. I then ripped one piece in half long ways. my plan is to use the one solid piece for the middle and put the other two on the outside for the rails. My thinking was that if i put the seams on the outside rails instead of the middle it might make the board stronger,plus have more flex in the middle. But since i have glued only one side on so far. i`m not sure ?? I have the width its at 17 inches right now but the seam is kinda of “well is” off center. i know if i put the other board on it will fatter"of course", but i think i should stay true with my thoughts?? although i would have a extra piece of wood. but i think the concave might mess with the seam?? i used gorllia glue to clamp them. and I was told that i should use some type if varnish or even epoxy to coat it with. instead of linseed oil,because the glue that might be holding the fingerjoints together is probally not water proof.
17 inches is plenty of width. you wouldnt really want to go any wider than that. i wouldnt worry about having the glue line off center, just draw a line down the middle of the board as your reference for the template. if the glue you used is not waterproof then you will prbably need to seal it with some varnish or epoxy. the best glue to use would have been marine grade epoxy. show us some pictures when you get a chance. good luck with shaping.
yeah i tried to post some pics ,but i cant figure it out!! i even put the wife on it,were stumped!! yeah im am thinking of making the board 16"wide, but i just thought it might be a little more stable with the seams on two sides of the middle piece im not really into wasting stuff,but i would have to cut down both sides to get to 16",but im thinking ti will be a stronger and more flexable board with the rails that way, thanks for the input and pelzzz give more!
well i finally had some time to do some cutting!! after a long 24 hour shift with a brushfire!! i came homw had a jam and a beer or two!! and thoiught about using my cymbal for a shaping guide, but it was not a tight i though tit would be!! so i used a nail and a string to make a semi circle an di hope it works out!! its a little off still but its close for a 1st timer i think?? not really sure how im gonna make the bottom half into a parabolic?? how do you make it even and how far down do you start to turn in?? the board is 7`6 and a little over 16"1/2 wide and just under a inch thick. any help for making the botton half look good??
well i finally had some time to do some cutting!! after a long 24 hour shift with a brushfire!! i came homw had a jam and a beer or two!! and thoiught about using my cymbal for a shaping guide, but it was not a tight i though tit would be!! so i used a nail and a string to make a semi circle an di hope it works out!! its a little off still but its close for a 1st timer i think?? not really sure how im gonna make the bottom half into a parabolic?? how do you make it even and how far down do you start to turn in?? the board is 7`6 and a little over 16"1/2 wide and just under a inch thick. any help for making the botton half look good??
yeah !! thanks man!! props to you guys for sharing the stoke!! we had some waves so i was busy surfing instead of shaping,but i`m on it as soon as the waves go flat. In florida thats happen alot!! and quick!
yeah !! thanks man!! props to you guys for sharing the stoke!! we had some waves so i was busy surfing instead of shaping,but i`m on it as soon as the waves go flat. In florida thats happen alot!! and quick!
Gorilla glue is a type of poly glue that is classified as a waterproof glue, though not adviseable for continued submersion. There’s lots in the sway archives about glues. However, you probably won’t get by too long letting it soak in the water without sealing it with epoxy which of course insn’t a traditional Hawaiian surfboard sealer. Then again neither is varnish, since varnishes didn’t gain much popularity until just prior to the 1940s. Lindseed oils, or various other “natural” oils have been used for centuries, but offer very little water protection (some protection may be enough if you dry it aftera each session and continue to maintain the oiling. You wouldn’t want an alaia board if you didn’t want a little soul, so I’d personally just use straight boiled lindseed oil available from any hardware store for this project.
You mentioned the possiblility of weekness as a result of your gluing procedure. If properly clamped, your glue of choice along with “yellow” glues (titebond), and other woodworking glues are actually stronger than the wood itself, so you shouldn’t have to worry about your glue job. The Titebond company (Franklin Glue) has some new water proof glues in their lineup in addition to their previous Titebond Three waterproof glue. In 35+years I’ve never had a single glue joint break (out of water that is). Good luck with your board, your pics look great. Enjoy the ride!
Richard
PS: Just thought of this as I closed…You mentioned you had a fingerjointed paulownia plank. I assume a commercially available product?? The odds are that it was not glued up with waterproof glue so act accordingly based on what was stated above.
thanks for the advice, i actually sprayed on a little water with a squirt bottle"fine mist" to get my joint a little wet,as i heard it helps with poly glues to have it a little wet"moist" before you glue with them. My only concern was i got the wood PRIMMED and already fingerjointed,so i am not sure if they used water proof glue. Which means it could be ruinned if not propely sealed. I was thinking about marine spar varnish"pretty cheap",or just going all the way and using epoxy and glassing it all. more pics coming soon!! thanks to everybody.
I just got a couple of really paulownia nice blanks for alaias, glued with Gorilla glue.
I want to stick with linseed and butcher block oil (a more waterproof mix, I hope), and therefor want to try to minimize exposure of the joints to water.
Would it work to spokeshave down the existing glue joints and run a seam of Hx0-proof epoxy along them, overlapping maybe 1/4 -1/2" to account for seepage into the wood?
ought to have read “really nice paulownia blanks” and “H20 proof”.
I later wondered if an epoxy glue might react with urethane glue ala epoxy blank and urethane resin.
Since Gorilla glue does seem to be fairly water-resistent, I guess what I’m really trying to determine is some method of putting a mitigating protective coating over the area of the glue joints: is there some kind of sealant that might just be applied (e.g. brushed on) over the joints?
getting ready to just use some spar varninsh on it , ill put some pics up later 2nite, hopefully ill be sanding and putting the concave into it tommorrow,and then some varnish. was thinking epoxy but i kinda messed up the board!! i was going for a 76 its now 68;( , but hey its my first time ever building anything!!! i mean i had to go and buy the little tools and my wife is worried i`ll end up a finger short everyday!! but for the first time it looks not that bad?? the tail is wayyyy offf but hey tom curren won on a board with different size fins.
heres some pics,let me know what you think?? as you can tell ,the nose i made from using my drum cymbol didnt match the templet i had. i made that temptlate from a firm carboard board. and i used a temp. given to me buy some guys on here"thanks"!! forgot to take pics of me taping it together and cutting it out. cant wait till sunrise!!
well,im think im done??? it started out as a 76 but ended up a 68???mostly due to some great people at swaylocks!! i now have some temptlets to use and it should be ALOT easier next time around!! i ready to to water proff it!!! but as the ??? goes WHAT WITH??? im was going to do the whole epoxy thing,but since the board did not come out perfect and what i had hoped it would be"as far as length", im just going to try a marine spar varnish. They sell one at lowes its a Rust Oleum marine spar varnish $14.99 a quart. ill guess il do 3-4 coats, but 1st ill use 220 grit and sand it smooth , and then well just go for it!! ill have the finished pics up hopefully after tis weekend!! its rainy and i dont want to put anything on the board until its dry outside. heres some pics, i know the board is not even at all,but it was my 1st time EVER trying to build anything!!
well,im think im done??? it started out as a 76 but ended up a 68???mostly due to some great people at swaylocks!! i now have some temptlets to use and it should be ALOT easier next time around!! i ready to to water proff it!!! but as the ??? goes WHAT WITH??? im was going to do the whole epoxy thing,but since the board did not come out perfect and what i had hoped it would be"as far as length", im just going to try a marine spar varnish. They sell one at lowes its a Rust Oleum marine spar varnish $14.99 a quart. ill guess il do 3-4 coats, but 1st ill use 220 grit and sand it smooth , and then well just go for it!! ill have the finished pics up hopefully after tis weekend!! its rainy and i dont want to put anything on the board until its dry outside. heres some pics, i know the board is not even at all,but it was my 1st time EVER trying to build anything!!
well i finally got to put some varnish on it in the last two days!! the waves r looking good,so im hoping they will lsat until i can get atleast 3-4 coats on!! im hoping two today and two tommorrow, and then i have to work but monday i`ll be tyring it out"hopefully"
Boose! Very nice board you made! Here is where you can see some I made too! Well, it’s a new Blog, but there will be lots to see on there! Go check it and leave some thoughts, pictures, etc. [img_assist|nid=1041438|title=PETROGLYPH SURFBOARDS|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=75|height=100]
