Hi everyone, I’m planning on shaping a 10-foot noserider. This will be my first time to shape my own board–and I’m a little apprehensive. It looks like I’ll buy the 10’1Y blank, and make it a basic 10-0x23x3-1/4, maybe a little concave in the nose. I’m tight on the funds and looking for the most cost-effective materials and tools. So obviously I’ll have some more questions in the future. I don’t even have a planer yet (Must I purchase a power-planer, or is a hand-planer okay?). I’ve already researched other sites and seen the basics, and now I need hands-on advice from others who have felt like I’m feeling now (And I’d rather not shell out $70 total for the two “101” videos if I don’t have to). So, the first question is this: Should I even be considering this board as my first project? I primarily ride longboards and want to make my own noserider, but I don’t want to waste a bunch of dough by screwing up one of the more expensive blanks. Should I practice on a short blank first (I wouldn’t ride it), or just go for the long bomb? I’ve always done my own board repairs, and I’m a pretty handy craftsman, so I’m not concerned quite as much with the actual shaping as I am with screwing up the glass job, but I don’t want to pay extra to have someone else glass it. Basically, I’m SKEERED! Does anyone have any cost-saving, stress-managing advice for this first-timer?
If I were you, I’d shape the least expensive 8 or 9 footer out there. It would be a little less expensive than your “Bomb”, yet you could still ride it every so often. You’re bound to make mistakes while learning on your first shape. Why waste more time and money when you don’t have to. And yes, you will need to get a power planer if you plan on shaping additional boards. This site has great resources for design and shaping boards. Read it all, and then get some practical experience. You will have many questions once you start shaping your first board. You will have many more questions once you finish shaping your first several boards!>>> Hi everyone, I’m planning on shaping a 10-foot noserider. This will be my > first time to shape my own board–and I’m a little apprehensive. It looks > like I’ll buy the 10’1Y blank, and make it a basic 10-0x23x3-1/4, maybe a > little concave in the nose. I’m tight on the funds and looking for the > most cost-effective materials and tools. So obviously I’ll have some more > questions in the future. I don’t even have a planer yet (Must I purchase a > power-planer, or is a hand-planer okay?). I’ve already researched other > sites and seen the basics, and now I need hands-on advice from others who > have felt like I’m feeling now (And I’d rather not shell out $70 total for > the two “101” videos if I don’t have to).>>> So, the first question is this: Should I even be considering this board as > my first project? I primarily ride longboards and want to make my own > noserider, but I don’t want to waste a bunch of dough by screwing up one > of the more expensive blanks. Should I practice on a short blank first (I > wouldn’t ride it), or just go for the long bomb? I’ve always done my own > board repairs, and I’m a pretty handy craftsman, so I’m not concerned > quite as much with the actual shaping as I am with screwing up the glass > job, but I don’t want to pay extra to have someone else glass it. > Basically, I’m SKEERED! Does anyone have any cost-saving, stress-managing > advice for this first-timer?
If I were you, I’d shape the least expensive 8 or 9 footer out there. It > would be a little less expensive than your “Bomb”, yet you could > still ride it every so often. You’re bound to make mistakes while learning > on your first shape. Why waste more time and money when you don’t have to. > And yes, you will need to get a power planer if you plan on shaping > additional boards. This site has great resources for design and shaping > boards. Read it all, and then get some practical experience. You will have > many questions once you start shaping your first board. You will have many > more questions once you finish shaping your first several boards! Your gonna be taking off at least a 1/2" of foam on a cow like a 10’1Y, noseriders are not as easy as say a high performance 9’3" out of a 9’5s its already quite thin(under 3"). Glassing is no fun, straight up! Pay a pro, its only about $170. your finished product will look waaayyyy better…
Hi everyone, I’m planning on shaping a 10-foot noserider. This will be my > first time to shape my own board–and I’m a little apprehensive. It looks > like I’ll buy the 10’1Y blank, and make it a basic 10-0x23x3-1/4, maybe a > little concave in the nose. I’m tight on the funds and looking for the > most cost-effective materials and tools. So obviously I’ll have some more > questions in the future. I don’t even have a planer yet (Must I purchase a > power-planer, or is a hand-planer okay?). I’ve already researched other > sites and seen the basics, and now I need hands-on advice from others who > have felt like I’m feeling now (And I’d rather not shell out $70 total for > the two “101” videos if I don’t have to).>>> So, the first question is this: Should I even be considering this board as > my first project? I primarily ride longboards and want to make my own > noserider, but I don’t want to waste a bunch of dough by screwing up one > of the more expensive blanks. Should I practice on a short blank first (I > wouldn’t ride it), or just go for the long bomb? I’ve always done my own > board repairs, and I’m a pretty handy craftsman, so I’m not concerned > quite as much with the actual shaping as I am with screwing up the glass > job, but I don’t want to pay extra to have someone else glass it. > Basically, I’m SKEERED! Does anyone have any cost-saving, stress-managing > advice for this first-timer? I think you should just go with the 10’0". If you’re not gonna ride anything shorter you’d be wasting your time and money. Using a hand plane on a 10’0" will probably blow your arm out, dish out the hundred or so bucks for the modified Hitachi, Clark Foam sells. Unless you know how to do the nose concave, I’d suggest you just start off with a basic flat bottom with some slight 'v" in the tail. Just take your time do the research and things should turn out fine. Everything that could go wrong did when I shaped and glassed my first board…hehe. But, even though it had a flat rocker and I almost thrashed it half way through the glass job, that board rode pretty good. Good enough to light the spark for me to keep shaping. Good luck bro.
I think you should just go with the 10’0". If you’re not gonna ride > anything shorter you’d be wasting your time and money. Using a hand plane > on a 10’0" will probably blow your arm out, dish out the hundred or > so bucks for the modified Hitachi, Clark Foam sells. Unless you know how > to do the nose concave, I’d suggest you just start off with a basic flat > bottom with some slight 'v" in the tail. Just take your time do the > research and things should turn out fine. Everything that could go wrong > did when I shaped and glassed my first board…hehe. But, even though it > had a flat rocker and I almost thrashed it half way through the glass job, > that board rode pretty good. Good enough to light the spark for me to keep > shaping. Good luck bro. I’m a big guy use the 10’1’y often for my hi personal performance model. to keep as much foam as possible i skin it with a stanley hand planer. sharp blades and adjusted takes me about 15 minutes per side.just try to get a real pretty blank.for building pointers i’d buy essential surfing for glassing and follow it to a tee,shaping, go borrow or rent shaping 101 from your local shaper (he’ll have it) and go for it.
Okay, I had this idea. Tell me what you guys think: Since it’s my first time, I don’t want screw up a big chunk of money, and considering that I don’t want a shorter board (I already have a Hi-Performance 9’3" and a 7’6" Minigun), I’m considering this: I have a beat-up Hobie Phil Edwards 9’6" (late 80s/early 90s model with the big center stringer+two side stringers, it was given to me). Though it’s signed by Phil, It’s really beat up, and I’ve researched that it wouldn’t be worth all that much if I eventually sold it. The blank seems to be in good shape, but has some water stains, it’s got significant de-lam from knee-paddling, and the glass has been patched many times. So, for a first-time glassing project, would any of you recommend re-glassing this board? Or would the blank get damaged by ripping off the old glass? Have any of you ever done anything like this? I really appreciate the input. And, Swaylocks, thanks for a great site and BB. Thanks again, deeb
Okay, I had this idea. Tell me what you guys think: Since it’s my first > time, I don’t want screw up a big chunk of money, and considering that I > don’t want a shorter board (I already have a Hi-Performance 9’3" and > a 7’6" Minigun), I’m considering this:>>> I have a beat-up Hobie Phil Edwards 9’6" (late 80s/early 90s model > with the big center stringer+two side stringers, it was given to me). > Though it’s signed by Phil, It’s really beat up, and I’ve researched that > it wouldn’t be worth all that much if I eventually sold it. The blank > seems to be in good shape, but has some water stains, it’s got significant > de-lam from knee-paddling, and the glass has been patched many times.>>> So, for a first-time glassing project, would any of you recommend > re-glassing this board? Or would the blank get damaged by ripping off the > old glass? Have any of you ever done anything like this?>>> I really appreciate the input. And, Swaylocks, thanks for a great site and > BB.>>> Thanks again,>>> deeb Even though that Phil might be a bit beat up I would recommend you just go out and get the blank. You’d be better off hanging on to the Phil, it may be worth something in the future even though you may think its not worth much now. Shaping a three stringer on your first try would make it a lot more difficult too.
Thanks, DT. You’ve convinced me to go for it. All new blanks have a hard surface that needs to be skinned off, right? How thick is this? One more: You mentioned that shaping a concave nose might pose a problem for a first timer, and I should just go with a simple design and a v-tail (you mean like a v-“hull”, not a v-cut/swallowtail on the back, right?). Can a non-concaved 10-footer like this noseride as good/long as a concaved one? What’s the hardest part about concaving?