Huck, have one of those too. Use it on a lot of projects at work and home. It all works with a speed controller.
The drill body is: Makita 5" sander/grinder #GV5000. On their website. If I was as savvy as you Huck I'd be able to post the photo.
I have been known to take it to a board, when no one's looking, LOL. Light touch, as you say. Actually, I have used it for rough-shaping rails on a wood board. I think the alternate methods given for removing globs of resin are safer, 'tho. Of course, mine is a voracious gobbling beast, I only keep rough grit discs in my shop.
Good for cope joints/miters also.
I havn’t screwed up his board, it is my third board i’ve shaped, i shape out in the garden under a gazebo with polyethene sheets on the sides to keep out the zits and i have two boxes, one labeld chemicals and the other tools. So i am by no means a pro! I have read other posts of shapers who DO use grinders to take off blobs and bits and tblank also uses a grinder along with others in this thread, there is no one way of doing things and obviously there is a way to use a grinder without leaving the trace behind in the glass…
I totally agree with you Rooster, i have had many mentors throughout my life leading me to become better in my surfing, teaching, parenting and other things, all of whome allowed me to learn the hard way and practiced tough love, but there is bieng ‘grumpy’ and then there is bieng condecending, aggrogeant and elitist, which does not deserve a thankyou.
In conclusion, my son’s board is by no means at competition level, but hey he’s 1 y/o and i’m pretty happy with the finish. Swaylocks has taught me alot over the past few years and this is the first bit of negetivity i have come across from any member.
McDing can McKiss my ass
Mr. Brum., Before you try for that McKiss, what M'Ding says is his opinion but he knows his stuff, has been doing this for years and has his method wired. We all get set in our ways. If he gives you a piece of advice...take it. At least with a grain of salt. He knows too much to be discounted. "To each his own taste.....said the dog......".
Fair enough. Apologies to all.
Fair enough. Apologies to all.
I'm guessing M'Ding has some fairly thick McSkin on his McAss. He really gets around. I'd listen to him any day of the week.
yeah Surform works great for bringing down the laps and or any excess resin left behind and then you can hit it with a styrene soaked rag and hotcoat it immediately after. I find that the styrene covers up/cleans some of the whitening that happens on the edges of the lap where you surformed and then the hotcoat will flow in a little better as well. careful though because the styrene will make your lam sticky again if you hit it with too much… just do enough to clean the area and then hotcoat. Acetone will work for clean up but I find that it dries with a thin poweder-like residue and styrene does not.
Also I think if you ever are attempting to fix some spider cracks that go down to the cloth styrene works great in situations like that because it will flow the resin into those small cracks and help cover up the cosmetic aspect of the damage while not having a corosive effect on the resin like acetone will. I will just wipe the sanded area with styrene then immediately start hotcoating the ding before the styrene evaporates so it “pulls” some resin into the cracks with it.
If you haven't got a right angle die grinder and an air compressor, then by all means do it by hand. Usually a sanding block and some fifty or sixty grit will do it. Use a block with no pad or foam. There's a way to do it wherein you start your stroke down below the edge of the lap and stroke upwards at an angle . this will catch the edge of the lap without hitting the foam. I've used a die grinder forever and the little Harbor Freight without the safety is the best in the world. Even though I've never worn one out, at $17 I keep a spare around just in case. I've used mine with a compressor that was only a one gallon tank. You gotta wait on it, but it still does the job. I bought a little oil-less(noisy) two gallon from Loews on sale for $59. You can get the backing pad and disks at Harbor Freight for cheap($17 or 18). It will straighten out any future screw ups and will make life easier when you grind your freelaps. My complaint is that I just hate to see people take a high rpm electric grinder to foam and fiberglass. It's a recipe for disaster. I preached die grinders and UV for so long in so many threads on this site, that it depresses me when i hear of someone bustin' a cherry with those mean a$$ machines I've cut tile with'em, ground steel etc, but i'll never take one to a surfboard. Visit a glass shop sometime. You hear the "whirr" of a die grinder in there almost every day.
Right ---I have two or three of those and use them in combination with the red resin grinding disks that are sold at Loews and HD. I use them to grind finboxes and leash plugs. Very handy for that app. In fact I'm using one today to scab paint of an old house for a repaint.
If I were an elitist I wouldn't waste my time trying to expain anything to folks on this forum. Not grumpy either just trying to tell it like it is so you do not make the same mistake next time. 4500- 7500 rpms and a grinding wheel shouldn't be anywhere near a surfboard rail.
The way I’ve always seen it done is either by hand with a surform or with a dremel tool with a tiny littel grinding disk on it. I’ve never seen anyone try to use the millwaukee to do that job and I can imagine that one going relaly wrong really quick… like woops there goes my rail…
M'Ding, SPEED KILLS!
That's why I have speed controllers.
Hey Shaggy, We ain't talkin' a 7" or 9 " Milwaukee. It's a tiny little four inch grinder with the same sanding disc compound as a pneumatic right angle die grinder. Whatever blows your skirt up. If folks aren't 100% comfortable with any tool, then they shouldn't be using it. We all have our methods.
I stand corrected.
Oh, the comedy continues with another crappy lappy. Which way is best? My opinion is your craftsmanship is seriously suspect, and you were improperly prepared for the job. So your left with a crappy lappy. People have accused me of being abrasive, of which I am guilty, and in this instance the use of abrasives is the best way to clean up that crappy lappy. A few of these responses border on lunacy, but that is to be expected from some, who like to share what the know almost nothing about.
Mcding, how does it feel to give a great tip, only to be marginalized to the point of irrelevance?
Dam , Mcding! My house is in need of painting !! Can you come on over ! I got all the tools and sandpaper you'll need ! My wife can cook up all the food you can eat! I will even give you all the beach time you want as long as you get the house painted !!
I'm open to critisism and I'm sure everyone else here is as well, it's how we learn. Let it lose Ghettorat.
Howzit mzwiesler, Lots of good suggestions in this thread and I just use a sanding block with a convex side and use 60 or 80 gris on it and it usually takes me about 5-10 minutes for a board done with 4oz. As for the resin kicking off early,it has happened to every body before UV resin. That's why you need to work with a pro in a factory for a while till you get it down. I have never had it happen to me or I would have gotten a head slap but I have come close a couple of time afer smoking some mota and then grooving on the tunes when I should have been laminating ,but my head alarm saved me. Aloha,Kokua