Problems with pictures? Bunyip I PM’d you.
Mark
Problems with pictures? Bunyip I PM’d you.
Mark
Hi, I’ve lived and surfed in North Devon, England, all my life (now 34yrs), so can maybe help if you are planning on making your way to this area.
I’m 6’1" and 13st (83kg?) and my current quiver looks like this:
5’8" x 20 3/4" x 2 3/8" Christenson-style Keel by Gulfstream
5’10" x 20 1/2" x 2 3/8" Speed Dialer, also Gulfstream
6’1" x 19 3/8" x 2 1/8" Doc Lausch F80 thruster
6’5" x 18 1/2" x 2 3/8" Dahlberg baby swallow thruster
6’8" x 19" x 2 1/2" Gulfstream pinny
Contrary to popular belief, I honestly think the waves around here are pretty good for a lot of the time!
I’ve lived in Australia and have surfed all over the world over the years, and while the summer here can suck, the rest of the year can have some good surf…
I came back from 3 weeks in Sumatra in January to solid, offshore overhead beachbreak barrels back here at home that resembled a somewhat chillier Hossegor. Last week we had solid, spitting barrels for a few days running… I’m sure a lot of the guys in Wales are pretty stoked on the waves there a lot of the time, too…
Anyway, back on topic… As was mentioned earlier, what you want to ride depends on where you’re surfing in the UK and your own preference.
For me, living in North Devon, the Doc and the 5’10" get the most use. The surf is rarely under chest-height in the winter, but can often have an onshore on it. I find a wide thruster is a good tool for making the most of sectiony, onshore beachbreak. If it’s clean and lined-up/hollow, I like my Quad (Dialer), as it makes sections and holds well in the barrel. It paddles well, too, which is something to think about in the winter.
If there’s proper swell and the points and reefs round here are working, I will ride my fishes in the smaller point surf and my 6’5" on the reefs when it’s solid. The points are protected, so they are almost always clean, but fickle.
The 6’8" gets used only once a year back at home unfortunately and more often than not, this will be when the beach is absolutely firing. I also use it in places like Indo if there’s a solid swell.
I’ve also ordered a single fin Nugget funnily enough! A 6ft allrounder, which I hope will be a fun board in the everyday stuff here in Devon.
As for wetsuits, a good 4/3 with a hood, boots and gloves will see you in the sea in February for a good couple of hours. For some reason, a lot guys over here have an aversion to hoods, but will happily wear a 5/4… not for me!
In the summer, a 3/2 is standard issue. If it’s August (and there’s a rare swell!), you can get away with a 2mm springy. The water is surprisingly warmer than you would imagine and is comparable to Capetown in some ways… not toasty, but not an issue! The biggest issues are the wind and tides in South west England.
Scotland and Ireland cop the brunt of swells, but can be fickle in different ways. I think it’s a little more user-friendly around here from day-to-day.
This was last Wednesday:
The South coast of England is probably the worst stretch TBH! Get your ass on the road! Wales in particular can have some great waves and less crowds than Devon and Cornwall.
If you want any other advice, please feel free to PM
This is from a cliff, those dots are surfing…
PM me next time there’s swell !!
Good info Strychnine, backs up what WWMark was saying…
maybe something like this-ish …
No worries, but I would disagree when he says that things are a little conservative, at least round here…
2nd hand McCoys go for good money and I sold my old 5’9" DVS for £350 at the end of last year. 2nd hand shortboards will go for silly money in Devon and Cornwall. You can get a good used shortboard such as a Handley or JS for about £120/£130, probably cheaper once you go to somewhere like Newquay (but you don’t want to go there really!)
If you brought a DVS, Sea, Lynch, Mick Mackie or a McCoy over, you will get solid money for it, even 2nd hand. I for one would have Mackie Rocket Fish off you if you fancied bringing one over. A 5’9" would be good! lol!
JP, Gulfstream, Black and White will all make you a good custom board and the quality and finish is way better than it was ten or 15 years ago. A shortboard will be £350ish, a glossed fish maybe £400/£450ish, although Daniel Kreggie in Cornwall has been doing some nice looking custom shortboards recently for £300.
Used suits will sell for 40 or 50 quid, but you can get good deals on new suits a lot of places.
Encouraging that there is more diversity of boards ridden in Devon . Anyone on here surf the Gower and is it mainly shortboards? My comments about the very conservative surfers are only about the small area of West Wales. Likewise you are very unlikely to get a good deal in the local surf shop (Ma Simes) or a good range of boards. I guess the lack of competition and that it gains huge revenue from the short holiday maker season means that it doesn’t have to try too hard.
Mark
Mate, the range of shapes, and then even the board makers can change here dramatically within a 10 kilometre stretch… both of you guys are riding boards much smaller and more refined than I’d dream of…
Strychnine, those pics look SO much better than anything I read about in that “Surf Nation” book.
Would love to be a surfing Santa, but I’m already looking at bringing over 2 boards.
That McCoy above will be for sale though, would look good under someone’s Xmas tree, eh?
No worries…
Here’s an old pic that may also whet your appetite:
Hey kdiegert.
Not sure if you’ve got your sloppy-wave board yet . . . But just thought I’d show you what I made for gutless waves.
[img_assist|nid=1042106|title=|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=426]
[img_assist|nid=1042104|title=|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=426]
I’m getting on in years so this puppy’s 7’, but it goes unreal . . . faaaaast and loose. Plenty of volume, plenty of single to double concave, boxy rails and fairly light. I can recommend somthing similar.
Mont