Well I have decided on my next project, it will be a fish. I kind of have some of the dimensions worked out but need some help. I want it to be 6’6" x 22 x 2 3/4. The quesitons is where to make the wide point? How wide 12" from the nose and tail? and how deep to make the butt crack? I want to use a Kane Garden template but dont know how to make a swallow tale on asp. Im 6’3" and about 200lbs, do the dementions Ive stated sound right to you all? This board looks like it will be alot of fun to shape and ride, and what Ive learned from glassing, it will turn out alot better then my last board in that aspect. Please help any advise will help out, thanks
Those dimensions for a person of your size sound good to me…Most fish and tail noses are somewhere in the vicinity of 16" and swallows anywhere from 5-6" deep. You could probably find more info in the archives. Good luck.
thanks, I forgot to ask does 6oz glass sound like overkill or will it be alright. I was also thinking of a gloss coat, I have not done that before, will that just add unneeded weight?
GreenB, so far everything sounds good, approx, 16"± nose/tail , the KG has a more forward width than center, they like the wider noses also, I don’t, 1. the nose is usually thick and can’t cutback like i like, the nose can dig especially if you have no rocker, with such a wide tail its hard to dig it in deep enough to get the fat nose out and around and back to the lip/whitewater, 2. in choppy water cond. any little chunk of water will grab the nose on turns and their you go. With that said I’m finishing N0. 7 fish another bomb, I pull the nose in sharper and widest just in front of center with concaves and 6x9 home made killer keels, of course single foils only, cant 5-6 degree and toe in about 2 inch away from nose, rails hard in the tail to 50/50 center for real speedy fish to soft nose.
Use all the new tech stuff available, my first fish i built in 1972 worked but liked to go straight and fast, aka no cant/toe in. One thing to remember is to make the lines flow from nose to tail, with it being 6’6" you have alot more rails to play with, I started with a 6.0 and now everybody wants 5.8’s go figure.
The swallows arn’t hard, start with a shallow vee cut to deepth then another vee cut to stringer angle so you don’t have to grind down the stringer then round and shape to please, check length from tips so they are equal. Dremel tools work great in this area of hard to get to.
Yes to the finish coat its not a wast of time its saving grace, it (finishing resin) is not porous like sanding and lam, inless you are use to having you pressures dings turn brown, use some acetone to thin and it won’t come out so thick. Good luck
thanks gonzo, that is a sweet board in your sig, any more pics, definatly an inspiration thats acutally more of the shape Ive been looking for. I just noticed your from honolulu, Im from the windward side of the island.
I tried to send pics but too big I’ll reduce and resend, my bro lives in Kaneohe/kahalu side,
To get the inner curve of the butt crack you can use the curve from a fin or the nose template from another board. mike
Thanks Mike, I did that before works great, forgot about it, the last one i did, i did use the nose template for the but crack.
Green, I sell the 1/4" marine plywood glass over fins in two styles both 6x9 but if you want a smaller size let me know, all single foils 35.00 trade or cash? They Work! I’ll e’mail the pics to your yahoo act. out. G.
Thanks everyone for your help, Ill check my email gonzo for those pics.