I am riding traditional template twinzer and a more pulled plan shape rocket fish quad
If I keep the same rocker, plan shape, foil etc what difference would the change from a fish tail to a round or a diamond tail make?
I read in an interview some where there are tow types of tail round and square … anything else is a cosmetic variation on these…
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A fish without a fish tail, works well. |
I actually think they ride better. Here are some of my latest ones.
this board kicks ass…I like the extra float/plane you get out of that foam and surface area in the back.
riding it as a ThrailTwin
I recently made those, in the 5’4" to 6’4" range and quad + box set-up and all reports were very enthusiastic:
another fine board from the laboratory.
riding the love of surfing
…ambrose…
dude…that’s the ticket!!!
kinky stringers and all…maybe with a sweet French/American color scheme…?
Love the second one ACE. I’ve been thinking about a forward widepoint, wide nose, and slightly pulled in round tail lately. I’d make it a thruster though. Kind of like a front footed surfers “shortboard” haha. A bit like the Al merrick single fin outline, but with a thruster setup.
I want all three!!!
I love the third one. It’s blue, for one thing… And very reminiscent of those first McTavish V-bottoms back in 1967 or so. Was it done on purpose?
When I travel to france to surf I will be ordering a stubbie from you… like the outlines a lot
You’re welcome any time, Durbs! Thanks for the kind comments.
I always have a “purpose”. Yes I borrowed heavily from some of the “Transition era” boards. Always liked the full outlines. One of my personal favorites was the Greg Noll Bug. Crappy plastic fins just did not work so well then. Six fins and quads for now.
So many people stick to swallows just because it is a fishy design, I shape fish and semi-fish mostly and put all sorts of tail shapes on them, I really think its a mental thing where because it has some fishy qualities, people believe it must have a fish ( or swallow ) tail…even at the Aussie Fish-Fry which was meant to be about fish shapes and where shapers are taking the design, there would have been 90% swallow tails and it was almost discouraged ( IMO ) to have any other tail shape and I cant understand that at all…shaping and surfing is all about creativity and expressing yourself and enjoying different feelings that riding a board on a wave can give so to stick with only one tail shape bewilders me…I say go forth try all shapes and enjoy…
This piece was featured on surfline.com
A TRUE SHORT SHORTBOARD REVOLUTION?
Rusty examines the best way to go shorter and have more fun…
Nat Young winning the ‘66 World Champs on a radically short (for the time) 9′4″. Photo Tom Keck
Once again there is a full-blown “modern” shortboard revolution going on.
Every generation settles into the equipment of the period, which is
usually some version of what really good competitive surfers ride in
optimum conditions and that notion of “standard equipment” or
“Performance Shortboard” (PSB) is perpetuated by the surf media.
The reality is that most of the time the average surfer is dealing
with average conditions and is trying to find the fun in a surfboard
designed for a better-than-average surfer in better than average
conditions. Ah yes, we can all aspire, but let’s get real.
Thus, every decade or so there is a collective cry of B.S. on the PSB and the media announces a “design revolution.”
Owning a surfboard designed for average surf is about the most
sensible thing a surfer can do. If there is only one board at a time in
your budget, wouldn’t you rather be having fun, surfing with much less
effort 80% of the time, and pushing the threshold of your board on the
occasional good day? (Versus bogging and pulling off the odd good hit
on your signature world-tour board?)
There is no revelation in the “short shortboard revolution” — it’s
practicality and the pursuit of happiness rearing its everyman head.
Go shorter, wider, thicker, flatter, and the fun will find it’s way
back into your everyday surfing experience. Skip the old-school fish
thing; it’s been flogged to death. They ride flat on the water and have
an appalling lack of continuity in rail-to-rail transition. There are
plenty of good alternatives. Round tails, diamond tails, bat tails, and
sorry if it sounds sacrilegious, but do yourself a favor and try
anything but a tail that ends with a 10-inch gap. One or two sets of
wings are a great design feature to step down tail width without
excessive outline curve.
Nine-time world champ Kelly Slater getting funky with his stubby board at Snapper. Photo: Sean Rowland
Length: At least four inches shorter than your current PSB.
Depending on body type, agility, ability, and (cringe) age you can go
even shorter still.
Outline: Go at least an inch wider in the center than your current
shortboard. The proportions dictate how the board will ride. As the
area shifts forward or back you will be forced to move with the balance
point or center of mass. Most generic PSBs have a tail that is three
inches wider than their respective noses. These proportions put the
wide point at roughly two inches behind center. For your alternative
everyday board (why would it be called an alternative?), consider an
outline that is proportionately fuller up front. This extra area up
front will assist in catching waves, add draw and length to turns
(remember the board is shorter) and provide some bonus planing surface
under your front foot. (There have been past evolutionary branches that
have explored area aft, but history has shown that only staunch
advocates of back-foot surfing find happiness down that road.)
Rocker: Lower rocker will help the board plane in softer surf. I
feel that old-school fish rocker is too flat and limiting. A relaxed
modern shortboard rocker not too far off your current shortboard will
be fine. Extra width and fuller, firmer rails will add plenty of skate
and glide. Simply delete the nose flip: imagine cutting a few inches
off the front of your board: the arc you are left with will be fine for
your new everyday board.
Rail volume: Go fuller — more volume. The object is to stay on top
of the water and not bog. The trick is to find a rail that is full and
still somewhat angular so you can still set the rail on turns but not
over commit in weaker, softer, surf.
Rail shape: Low; a lower apex and tighter bottom radius facilitates
more efficient water release and generates more lift. It will also make
for a more sensitive rail that reacts more quickly than a softer,
rounder rail. You will find that a well designed full rail with a firm
tucked edge will get up on top of the water and be quicker out of the
gate than the garden variety, round, Frisbee rail. Other positive
attributes: better carry and glide through flat spots and weak sections
with a free and loose feel.
Fins: why wouldn’t you want to be able to change your fins? Fins
make or break the board. It may sound counterintuitive, but bigger
front fins will generate more lift. Softer tips are a good thing in
softer surf. Fins with dynamic rebound, usually only found in all glass
or RTM construction (a whole other conversation), are worth the
investment. Rear fin(s): smaller will free up the tail.
This is a good trick if you want to get a little more out of your
current three-fin in weaker surf: Speaking in general terms, most
surfers are running about 4.5″ fins in all three slots. Try something
on the order of 4.75 up front and 4.25 in the rear and this should give
your board more lift and free up the tail.
Construction and Weight: In smaller, weaker surf, light is your
friend. You will get the best weight to strength ratio with EPS/Epoxy
construction; handbuilt, composite, molded or otherwise. The lightness
of an EPS core combined with the strength of epoxy resin, pound for
pound, ounce for ounce will make for a more responsive, lively board.
Sounds like fun? It should be!
…there are lot of options, like the photos other guys are posting,
but to have the “fishness” you better have a very thin tail (or different material, etc), a shape less than 6´, etc
not possible with thicker wider tails
less foam=flex
the buttcrack works for that
also this type is not seen but works even better to provide flexy tails (without exotic materials and combos)
I have problems with some customers that have fear for these points so I dont shape those tails normally
here photos from the shadows of that obscure world called custom
Heres a diamond tail done last year with my friend Jim Stevens (Tuna around here). These shapes were popular just before the twin fin era came about. We called the twin fins before they were called “fish”. There was a company called “Shane” in OZ that made these shapes in the 1960’s. I used to copy them.Sorry if I went off topic. R Brucker
So, we should ride something different, shorter, wider, thicker, anything, except a twin keel fish?. Well, i don’t give a rat’s arse how popular he is, mine is wide, thick, flat, crude, homemade and i love it. So shove it dude
have had good results with this board, 6’0 x 20", surprisingly goes well in large surf too. I decided to use my fish outline based on an MR twin fin and make the tail a rounded square.
I like the look of diamond tails so might shape another similar with a diamond and see how that goes, anybody know what the advantage of having a diamond tail is if any?
Pridemore, nice boards , like the outline of the shaped blank and wicked looking fins on the quad!
thanks nocean, that shaped blank is a 6’5" x 20 5/8" x 2 5/8", single to fairly deep double that runs thru the quad fins…this it finished with orange-yellow deck spray…
and a few others just to have a look at…
