I usually use silmar premixed gloss 20 oz. to 20cc works 99% of the time perfectly just takes awhile to gel. today I used the stuff I got from Atlantic. I asked for Reichold and got Seacor gloss which I’m thinking maybe another label on Reichold resin. this stuff is a little thicker than silmar and it’s purple. anyway, figured I’d kick it a little slower since I didn’t know what to expect. 24oz. to around 17cc. it laid down VERY nice but as it kicked I started to get longggg thin seperation lines. about 7 of them 2-3’ long all the way down to the hotcoat. I’ve heard about it but believe it or not it’s a first for me out of 24 glosses. also got some sheeting on the rails. I wiped the board down twice with acetone so there was no oils or whatnot. It was around 85* in the shed today. I’ve done silmar in hotter temps with good results. was the temp just too hot? I’m not getting a/c so will cutting down the cat. help? it did gel in about 20 mins, which is good.
was it raining?
no, I don’t think humiditiy was the culprit.
Hey JR I have seen so many people agonise over gloss resin.Firstly when you lay it on use plenty of pressure then plenty of downward pressure with your cross strokes.I have always used sanding resin for glossing and had no trouble with sagging or seperation.I also worked for a company that in a 12 month period went through that many different recipes for glossing it was ridiculous they were determined that you had to use gloss resin.I was the glosser there and finally did it my way with sanding resin, they were happy with the result and begged me to disclose my recipe when I told them it was straight sanding resin they told me I had to add 2oz of gloss resin and half an ounce of s.a.which I did and they were happy as long as there was some gloss in the mix???I like to be able to pull the tape about 5-7 mins after my last brush stroke.
I have been getting good results by using a mix of silmar gloss resin and sanding resin. I mix it two parts gloss to one part sanding and kick it hot. I paint it on, then go down the board twice using strokes from rail to rail the lenght of the board. After doing this I drag the brush from nose to tail with a very light touch once. THEN I LEAVE THE ROOM SO I DON’T SCREW WITH IT ANYMORE! I found that using less resin is better than to much. A clean bush is a must. Also dragging the board with masking tape just before glossing will remove small dust etc. Always stain the resin though a med paint strainer and use a clean bucket. This is just how I’ve learned to gloss and get acceptable results. I’m sure someone may have a better way.
I’ve done everything right and never had a problem in any temp. with Silmar249, except occational rail sagging. I’ll try adding sanding resin for that. I’m searching for an answer to why this purple stuff did this. was it air temp (87) or too much cat (24oz-17cc)or both? any of you who use Reichold gloss help me out here, is yours purple or did I get something else? thanks for your suggestions guys.
Yep Reichold is purple and sometimes red.I usually add styrene to thin it down a bit.Reichold is a hot resin…I like to gloss in temps in the 70 degree range.Air conditioning helps a lot.Waaay back in the seventies when I was production pinlining and glossing we kept the room at 70 degrees and shot the glosses at around 35CC,pulled the tape in ten minutes or so.We did resin pins only.Silmar gloss takes too long to jell in my humble opinion if you are doing resin pins.The prolonged jell time may cause the pins to bleed. R.B.
what % are you using JR for your cat? or anyone w/ a good % in 80 degree temps