Foam tint question

I’ve tried laminate tints:

  1. with a clear lamination first and a tint lamination over it. Orange.  I think it was Successful.

 

  1. Tint lamination directly onto raw blank. Dark magenta.  Less even color in that you can see foam grain. 

Now I want to try foam tint on last board for the season. Idea is to mask off areas for a simple pattern.  I tested masking off a small area for tint and just as I suspected,  the resin spreads into foam, creating uneven mask line. To me this is unacceptable. I’m using top quality tape. 

Is there any other way to get cleaner mask line?  Or are my expectations too high. 

Last option is to spray it, but don’t have the spray cans or good spray gun (yet, maybe next year), but want to avoid it. 

 



Pic of mask

I don’t think it’s the tape it’s the porosity of the foam. Probably get better results if you seal the blank first. Or spray (as you stated). Otherwise, plan on pin lines, or let the textured edge be part of the design.

the board in this link was done with tinted glass over clear glass, masked off and razor cut the clean edge.

http://www.swaylocks.com/node/64063

Here are a couple tricks I read on here,
You can mix some thickener, like q-cell with the resin so it doesn’t go under the tape as much.
You can also seal the tape line, I.e. put clear resin down on the tape and wait a little.

Huck, really nice board!

Hi guys, Absolutely it’s the foam porosity.
If I seal the foam first along the tape line, then the tint will not absorb into foam evenly. I guess I could seal entire blank first. But weight added.

Having problems with leak on cutlapp too. I’m using slow epoxy, waited 8 hrs to do the cut.
I can save this by doing wood deck, like other boards. Can’t figure out how pros are getting such clean cutlapp. Perhaps polyester absorbs less and fast catalytic prevents absorption.

I pulled the tape on the blue tint epoxy after 45 min using fast epoxy.

Don’t want to use Pinline.

My conclusion is I have to tint whole blank, or mask and spray blank with paint, If I want to avoid Uneven mask or cutlapp . Do clear lams over.

Thanks melikefish!


I’ve never thought of sealing as adding much weight, just that much less that will soak in when you glass.  Never did a weight comparison to see 'tho, how did you know it would add weight? 

Is this a board for a pro?  I know most pros are really weight conscious when it comes to their boards, but you seldom see color like this on a pro’s board, just white and light and not made to last very long. 

I guess when you’re surfing at that level you could actually feel a couple ounces difference, most recreational surfers like myself probably wouldn’t, or at the very least would consider it a worthwhile trade-off for a custom color job.

I would think that if you just seal the masked area, you would probably still do better than your pics.

The porosity comment was in response to your statement “I’m using top quality tape”.

Hej Huck,
Point taken on the weight…
I’m making kiteboards anyway…probably could seal the whole blank…

Do think just Sealing blank at tape area will cause uneven tint because blank as uneven absorption due to Sealing only on one area?

Well, not if you seal the whole masked area getting tint.

Here is a pro tip from a guy who used to post here, Atomized.  (go back and read his old posts.  Gold.)  Get some artists “gesso” in white.  Use that to seal the area you are going to tint.  I used to just get a finger full and run it along the tape line to seal it.  It will not show or leave an uneven tint.  He used to seal the whole board with that or a mix of Fast and Final and gesso.  Wish he would drop in once in a while, but the know-it-all rookies drove him crazy and he checked out.

all the best

Nice tip thanx for posting it.