I have 2 blanks that I want to tint with water based paint or acrylics. I’ve looked at the local art supply stores and found Liquitex and Createx paints in small 2-4 oz. units for airbrush use. I’m not using an aibrush, probably an HVLP unit and will be spraying all one side (taped stringer line) in two panels of solid color. Transparent, solid color tinting is what I’m after. Assuming it will take at least 8 oz. of paint (wild guess) to cover a 7’0". Do these products come in larger units/volumes that are reasonably priced? Saving this question for last…maybe a laugh or two in the S.A. gallery on this one. Has anyone ever tried using cheap tempra (poster) paints on foam? It is water based, comes in primary colors and is ultra cheap. My guess is the coloring agents aren’t stable enough and will fade quickly or some problems with spraying this stuff. What works for solid panel foam tints? Thanks to everyone here, Swaylock’s is a great momentary escape for me during the day. Tom S.
Hi Tom - No joke - I didn’t want to mention it cuz it sounds so amateur. That’s exactly what I’ve used in the past for airbrushing. I’ve used it directly on the blank and also misted over sanded hot coats prior to gloss and never had a problem with fading or delams. It’s important to mix thoroughly and run it through a fine screen filter to avoid chunks which could clog your spray device. As with any paint (water based acrylics, etc.) I test on a scrap and smear resin on it just to make sure it won’t run. Good luck.
John: Made my day! I was faced with a mail order or a road trip. A testing I will go…maybe have those babies glassed this weekend. I’d welcome any one else’s commments on this as well. TS>>> Hi Tom - No joke - I didn’t want to mention it cuz it sounds so amateur. > That’s exactly what I’ve used in the past for airbrushing. I’ve used it > directly on the blank and also misted over sanded hot coats prior to gloss > and never had a problem with fading or delams. It’s important to mix > thoroughly and run it through a fine screen filter to avoid chunks which > could clog your spray device. As with any paint (water based acrylics, > etc.) I test on a scrap and smear resin on it just to make sure it won’t > run. Good luck.
personally i would stick with a good quality acrylic. if the color is too opaque, thin w/ about 25-30% water. tempera will prob. work ok but they’re notoriously cheap paints and usually not very lightfast. Golden, Liquitex, Novacolor(really cheap, good quality, mail order), Createx are all good brands.
Bruce: Thanks for your input. Are the Createx, Golden etc. products available in 16 or even 32 oz. sizes? All I can find are very small 2-4 oz. bottles at the local art/craft chain stores. I tested the tempera paints this evening and mixed my color, thinned with a bit of water and got the transparent effect I’m looking for. I’m sure that the coloring agents are cheaper in the tempera paints and not as pure or true for one reason or another. I’m going to try a test on foam and laminate it and see what happens. Thanks again. TS>>> personally i would stick with a good quality acrylic. if the color is too > opaque, thin w/ about 25-30% water. tempera will prob. work ok but they’re > notoriously cheap paints and usually not very lightfast. Golden, Liquitex, > Novacolor(really cheap, good quality, mail order), Createx are all good > brands.
I use liquitex on foam,and if i’m spraying hotcoats I use auratex. Tom, mix you paints first with h2o,then strain the mix with a paint strainer.A LITTLE THICK IS GOOD! Then add some alcohol to it for final thinning and faster drying. On sanded hotcoats I use Auratex and mixed with denatured mineral spirits,for a better bond.Herb.
Bruce:>>> Thanks for your input. Are the Createx, Golden etc. products available in > 16 or even 32 oz. sizes? All I can find are very small 2-4 oz. bottles at > the local art/craft chain stores. I tested the tempera paints this evening > and mixed my color, thinned with a bit of water and got the transparent > effect I’m looking for. I’m sure that the coloring agents are cheaper in > the tempera paints and not as pure or true for one reason or another. I’m > going to try a test on foam and laminate it and see what happens. Thanks > again.>>> TS the big thing i would worry about is fading with tempera. most temperas are made with either dyes or really cheap pigments, while even student grade acrylics use much better pigments. acrylics also handle/control way better. i’m a fine art major, and own an art school for kids and adults, and we use both kinds of paint.
I’ve got zero experience in art or airbrushing. Probably why I’ve stayed away from artwork on boards. A couple of disasters with rattle can paint jobs on foam helped that decision too. I appreciate all the shared experiences on this. Tom>>> Bruce:>>> Thanks for your input. Are the Createx, Golden etc. products available in > 16 or even 32 oz. sizes? All I can find are very small 2-4 oz. bottles at > the local art/craft chain stores. I tested the tempera paints this evening > and mixed my color, thinned with a bit of water and got the transparent > effect I’m looking for. I’m sure that the coloring agents are cheaper in > the tempera paints and not as pure or true for one reason or another. I’m > going to try a test on foam and laminate it and see what happens. Thanks > again.>>> TS
Tommy…do NOT feel funny about asking about the tempera, and I’m really glad that you did! I have (absolutely) used certain temperas right on the blank. I’ve applied 'em with both a foam brush, and standard (soft, synthetic) bristle brushes. I agree with whoever just mentioned it, though, some of those colors can fade - but i’ve had pretty good luck, otherwise. I have not encased a complete board (top and bottom), though. (I was chicken!). I once did a full egyptian sarcophagus on the bottom of a friend’s board (sorry, I don’t have any pix) - and it came out pretty good. The killer paint effect on that one was the “metallic” colors…like bronze and gold. the aquamarine color looked a good copy of “lapis lazuli”. Now you got me going…time for another shot at something like that. Those tempera colors (the ones in bottles, right?! there are two versions - one a little stiffer and one a bit more viscous. I used them straight) are best applied like I mentioned. Don’t use an airbrush, regardless of how you thin the paints, as there is a lot of particulate matter that will clog and ruin your equipment. I have not used temperas to classically tint or color a board in the traditional sense…with the temperas, it was more along the lines of an applied painting…something with more leeway. The paints are cheap and WAY fun. Got kids?..dip their feet in the stuff and you’ve got a human stamp kit! I really miss fun looking boards…everyone is so damn serious and rigid these days! lots 'o luck…hope to see some “free art” on your stix, soon! Aloha, T.