For some reason I hear that Fijiian boy in endless summer 2 laughing alot at the most obvious moments, you know the boy droppin coconuts on heads. Yeah take an Alaia out and make sure the local crew is around, small choppy waves will guarantee a few laughs. Did for me anyway. One thing about goin alaian is you will be face to face with respect for hawaiian watermen of yesterday today and tomorrow. ok two things, you might get humbled unless everythings firin perfectly. so maybe a third thing, you should have brought an olo also.
Waa t eva,
ride reports for a couple woodies, the thin one floats me to my chin, (insert- ahhh ha ha, ahh ha ha ha) yeah so what I donna care, im surfin this puppy windslop er knots.
I hear him again.
ahhh ha ha, ahh ha ha ha.
First two attempts to catch some slop and im too far back like a goon ball stuck on the tail afraid or somethin, ok I adjust, no need woory bout pearl on a stiff no rockered plank right? the kid laughin again in my head, what is his name? Eddie or something. No wax, pure oil (vegetable of course), a mixture I whipped up with some secret ingredients which happens to be gettin the job done better than I by the way, ok here comes another bch brk mush slop ball, wow I actually got this one, goin up? Hull yeah my body responds, whoa, wha happened to the tail??
I play for a while then address the gathered crowd, Wanna try it? Silence if eddie weren’t laughin. Wow I get a taker, a friend katsumi, he sits back on the tail for his first two and misses just like me, oh well, he rides one prone and is smilin at least. Then the big dogs want a piece, owner of a surfshop down the streets been droolin since I led the woody to water and steps up, same thing, too far back for the first two, strange thing maybe the best surfer there except for me and maybe eddie of course
came up with the smallest wave count, then the homegrown local wants a shot, same thing, good fun any way.
This thin one needs more juice to push my overweight sash but hey, eddie n I will be laughin when the size comes up right? I know he will.
I made this one for hollow beach pits, slight hullish belly bottom to concave back 1/3, just over 1/2 inch tick. http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs007.snc1/2840_90961502912_523077912_1823176_2020220_n.jpg
This one is slightly more user friendly with less than firing conditions. Liddle flatter bottom n more girth all around. floats me to the chest.
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs007.snc1/2840_90961512912_523077912_1823178_45108_n.jpg
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs007.snc1/2840_90961507912_523077912_1823177_3063657_n.jpg