the Island that is swalocks
where every wave is ridden
by a completely different
individual built craft
is an oasis in space.
…ambrose…
the Island that is swalocks
where every wave is ridden
by a completely different
individual built craft
is an oasis in space.
…ambrose…
For Sunday, I rode my #001 for its first real exploration.
A chunk of foam and wood is given a purpose.
Get me down the line in the midst of this ledgy, sucking, cold, dark, slab.
Sand and boulders underneath. The tide so high, giant cedar logs from upriver lock together in the shorebreak and creak back and forth. Its raining so hard even the eagles are sitting this one out. We’re getting hammered, but somehow there’s a good offshore flow.
The board has a huge sweet spot. It’s as if you can’t put your foot in a place that doesn’t jive. Form=Function…worked for me today.
Thanks Swaylockians.
Thanks Planet Earth.
Thanks Sunday.
sunday here “went OFF” !!!
[RIGHT off…]
I even had it to myself…