Howzit Doug, No one has mentioned if they are using upcut blades or down cut blades. Aloha,Kokua
Quote:
what if you laid your template (hardwood or MDF) on the unskinned, unrockered blank, clamped it down, and used that as a flat surface and a guide for your jigsaw? would that work? has anyone done it? i like to skin the blank and rocker it after i cut the outline (but i could change my ways … if need be)
I don’t know about foam, but here is the issue that I have had cutting out a balsa blank with a jigsaw. The problem comes in when you start cutting the curve. The jigsaw blade that I used was 3 1/2 inches long, and I was cuting into a 3" thick blank. When you start into a turn, the bottom of the blade wants to keep going in the same direction for a while after you’ve started turning. This causes the blade to drift away from 90 degrees, and you get a non vertical cut. I ended up cutting outside of my lines, and then cleaned everything up afterwards with a planer. The planer does a good job, and is pretty fast. The whole process is much quicker than using a hand held saw.
Kokua,
I always use upcutting blades (teeth pointing up) so they pull the jigsaw down as they cut.
Also, another point about fast cutting blades that have fewer teeth per inch: the teeth on these blades turn out slightly at the tips, making for a wider kerf, which keeps the blade from binding in wood. That’s one of the reasons they tend to wander less in foam, because there is less foam in actual contact with the blade.
Doug
I always liked jig saws. With practice you can cut dead on the line with very little true up. For routers there’s a new one out by Ryobi that has a variable speed. You don’t need power to cut foam and this thing turned down a couple notches is very nice… smooth. Has a 1/2 colet too. Costs about $100 … HD and Lowes.
keep it simple greg is right jig saw easy.
nice to work with
serious production
doing retros and reminiscing
finally found my treasured blade and could make a photo. This blade has tungsten tipped teeth and cuts the foam (EPS/PU) very clean and effortless. It can cut to around 4" (see mm tape on package) deep and the tip does not wander sideways. This blade made even 10’ sailboard outlines a breeze.
It is certainly possible to glue a shim on the top inside so it can be guided along a template. Other brands should be available too, as mentioned the blade is actually designed to cut fiberglass roof sheets.
Aloha Jeremy:
I have always cut my outlines with a jigsaw. I currently use a Festool barrel grip jigsaw. What I have found for myself is that the most important aspect of using the tool is how you guide it.
I originally started by using the tool standing over it, which worked reasonably well. But then I changed my technique [hence the barrel handled jigsaw], where I hold the saw with both hands on the side of the tool, with the tool sitting flat on the board, and then I walk backwards pulling the jigsaw. This makes it really easy to follow the line as you can see it very clearly and you can also cut very fast and accurately.
I use a Bosch 4" roughcut blade as I also use the same blade for cutting out balsa boards, works very well and does not wander very much. My experience was that when I worked over the tool it tended to wander much more than when I pull it!
The Festool barrel grip jigsaw has the on/off switch on the side so this puts it right where you want it when your hands are on the sides of the tool. I used to use a Bosch jigsaw but once I went to the Festool things got much easier and more accurate. The nice thing about the Festool is that it has a blade guide a lot like a bandsaw that keeps the blade from whipping around too much.
I always do the outlining after I have blocked the bottom of the board so that the jigsaw can more accurately cut at 90 degrees.
I have used this technique for years now and would not do it any other way!
-Robin
robin,
good to see were both hooked on festool!!
as you mention about the guide system on their blades, im sure your aware but for others its worth checking out, unrivalled guide system coupled with the fact that the reciprocating action works back from centre unlike all other jigsaws which pull the blade up in front of centre. takes a bit of thinking about but if you imagine with any other jigsaw in reciprocating motion the blade is cutting in front of the point of cut at the surface whereas festool is behind. makes sense when you cut a 90 degree corner and there is no over cut on the underside!
do you use any other festool gear?
Back to Bosch for a moment…I recently bought their new barrel grip model. It has a blade guide to keep the blade running true as it moves up and down. Much better than the old style.
I like the idea of pulling the tool instead of standing over the top a pushing it. I’ll have to try that next time I do an outline.
Doug
miki,
what do you mean by glueing a shim on the top inside? stupid question but, what’s a shim and where would you glue it so that you could follow a template?
hand-shaper,
that’s a good idea about walking backwards and pulling instead of pushing. i was grappling with the idea of how to stand over it and guide it accurately.
thanks
, jeremy
jdm keep it simple read my posts
a shim is a thin strip of material (best is brass or nylon) just thick enough to pertrude over the edge of the tungsten tips and just as long as the stroke of the jigsaw. the shim slides along the template and the shim prevents the blade from cutting into the template. superglue will do.
something about walking backwards with a running power tool, with the dangerous end facing you, sets my safety alert on high… besides, how can you hold a beer if you’re using both hands on the saw???
Aloha Keith:
Believe me it is the best way to practice your cross-stepping, you soon get very good at it and it pays off when you go longboarding.
It is a lot safer than it sounds!
In fact one of the things I like about it is that I’m looking at the working end of the tool so I can keep an eye on it! The other safety feature is that you are never walking over the power cord as it is following behind the tool. At first I thought the same thing as you, but once I tried it i never looked back!
I’ve seen a few other people using this technique, including the Greek, it works like a charm.
Of course if you have a cluttered shop with an uneven floor that might not be the case. As always it is all about preparation anyway.
-Robin
Hi Keith. Now, that’s an easy one:
(But I agree with you about the safety side…)
Aloha surfingdog:
It is the only Festool I currently own but I’m looking at getting their small plunge router and one of their sanders. I can’t believe the quality of their tools. I really like the fact that you can have a single power cord and you then just plug it into whichever tool you need to use.
I also wouldn’t mind one of their plunge saws which looking really nice.
Anyone try their planer, it looks very interesting and has a rather unique depth control.
I only wish their tools were a little cheaper, but I guess you get what you pay for!
You are right that guide system they have looks really neat.
I typically don’t have the reciprocating feature turned on when I’m plan shaping a board, except when I’m doing balsa. I’ll have to study it a little more closely now that you have pointed out how it works. Thanks!
-Robin
Robin,
i was converted a few years ago when i ran my own furniture making business! i now have the rotex snader, plunge saw, jigsaw and 1/2 " router.
i absolutly love all of them and dont know where id be without them, id certainly have a dirty, messy shop!
if you only use the router for routing boxes the small OM10 is ideal but if you use it for anything else id say try the 1/2" as its nowhere near as big and clumsy as its rivals and with the hairdryer type grip it is possible to rout one handed!
wish i had the planer too, still saving for it tho!