Well I really liked using Future to seal my boards. Inexpensive and looked great. Last board I did was some fairly intricate sprays on the foam. I then put the outlines on the sanded hotcoat with my Posca. Then 3 coats of Future. First dip in the ocean and there were some white spots from the future (not cured long enough?) and some wore through and ruined the pinlines (gone!) Now to fix I will have to remove the Future and outlines then redo the whole shootin match. I got some urethane clearcoat from the auto paint store to try. Kinda pricey but it has UV blockers and is catalized. Guy said it was tough as nails and I could buff it in 2 hours or so. Comes super high gloss but has a matte additive you can use if you want. Anyone use this stufff before? Ditzler brand. Will still use the Future to thin my paint and seal the foam. Works great for that. Krokus
Hey Krokus: I got the white patches when I sponged future on, haven’t had any problem since I started spraying it. I’d assume it’s from going on too thick. I use Future on my hotcoats, it’s cheap, available, seems to seal the hotcoat well, buffs out good, even fills up little pin holes… but it’s not strong. As I think you’ve found out, it won’t protect a pinline.
Yep the little grom couldn’t wait and hit the water 10 hours new. Might not have cured enough. I’ll let you know how the urethane comes out. I need to post up some pics as soon as these last boards are done. Heck I didn’t even geet a chance to take a decent picture before they came to pick up the last one!
The Urethane product you have is gnarly! I used to use it in the 80’s on sailboards and like the guy says it’s tough. Warning: if it is Linear Polyurethane (catalyzed) please be sure to use a respirator as the toxicity is way beyond any of the products you currently use. The stuff enters your bloodstream with ease and affects your central nervous system. Early symptoms: lethargy and light nausea. If you get a kind of metallic taste in your mouth and an ache in your lower right side below your ribs then your liver is absorbing the chemicals. The stuff sprays really well and the flatting agent allows you to finish the board with a 3M pad (strokes parallel with the stringer). Back then, I saw boards finished with the high gloss in Hawaii; the tiniest flaws in the sanding coat really show up, more so than the thicker gloss resin will allow. Curious to see what you think of the results as the chemistry has probably been improved since way back when… Good Luck.
krokus, man i use acrylic varnish with matte aditive and it´s perfect!
Any particular brand that you have found? Has anyone tried spraycan polyurethane?? I think the poly will yellow over time. You are talking about regular ol’ furniture varnish?? K
automotive varnish type is what i talk…without catalyst yes PU yellow… i use swedish brand… AKSO NOBEL