I´ve read whats on this forum about glassing in futures boxes, but have a detailed question.
I am doing tint glass lamination for first time on a kite surfboard and have fixed the boxes using the one-pass intallation kit and straight epoxy with glass under the flanges. Will be laminating 200g ( 7oz) + 113g ( 4 oz) + 113g ( 4oz) on bottom and add clear 4oz patch after intial lam for extra security due to high fin stress in kiting.
I refilled the little slots in the fin flange and carefully sanded the flange area . There is still small depressions in the slots- they are 80% filled up.
Question: Do i need to make sure those slots are 100% filled and flush to the flange before glassing ? If i dont will i get air bubbles in those depressions? What i would do is carefully put a drop of epoxy on each slot to fill it and then re-sand it before glassing.
Really dig that channelled out kite board. Want to get into making some channels in the future.
Regarding your futures box question. I love futures boxes. I believe I have 3 or 4 detailed pictorials on this site regarding this issue. The directions for the futures are really very clear but there are a few modifications I use.
I cut my depth 2mm deeper than necessary. So imagine when I push the fin box in flush to the cut hole, the flange is 2mm deeper than the board bottom. This allows me to build in greater strength and allows for fin cant adjustment if needed and still keeps the flange below the board bottom.
I use MILLED FIBERS #1 and mix to epoxy resin to a thick but on the wet side paste. This allows me to use fast hardener because the exotherm of the resin is no longer an issue with the milled fibers #l using less resin. The box in my opinion is set stronger. When the resin/milled fibers #1 is extruded through the holes after box is inserted I carefully wipe off excess resin with a clean rag. If you used enough resin/fiber mix you should never have gap present.
I fiberglass patch my boxes with 4 or 6 oz fiberglass. I insert my fin screw at this point and go deep. Tape off fin box hole. Spray the set plastic box only with adhesive. Place my patch on and finger in the fiberglass cloth to the box flange below deck still. Make sure board is level and wet out patches with resin. You add enough resin to now make the flange and deck to be level. When you fully glass the bottom of your board you will not even have to look and what is happening at the boxes beacuse you fixed all the problems that can occur with the patch.
I do have other combinations to this method for specific circumstances.
For your current situation just get board level. Throw in screw and place deep. Tape off boxes and either spary adhesive on plastic only and patch with fiberglass or tape off around boxes on foam or not and put some resin on the flange, wipe off excess that spill on tape off foam or foam with clean rag. Neddle prick any air bubbles and use fastest hardener so not baby sitting so long.
