A Nicely sunset-lit late in the day tube
good! The Bombie finally rearing to life,
with 8ft+ sets breaking on it. The low tide in the morning and morning
sickness look about it kept everybody on the beach… possibly waiting
till they seen people go out and get good waves? Well I went out at
10:30am and timed it just right, the tide came up a little bit more and
the wind was stiffening its offshore breeze and there was some beautiful
6ft sets grinding through Money Trees! Water was still not the warmest,
I wore an old 2mm Steamer and was just right.
About to set up a stand-up pit
Some real good barrels to be had if you got the right waves, and some
waves would offer multiple barrels. With the tide getting higher, there
were easily 8ft sets coming through here and there keeping the crowd on
their toes. Crowd? Yes, was pretty busy from late morning till mid
afternoon (as per high tide goes). I went back out late in the day, and
right before sunset snagged 2 perfect set waves with good tubes. Thats
G-Land for you. There were sets going all the way down the reef, I got
one from Upper Moneys all the way to end of Speedies. And I seen others
do that too on the right wave!
And into the stand-up pit
A few injuries today, nothing to serious thankfully. I sure ate
donuts a lot amongst the good ones I got. My friend Chris Luke ripped
his groin muscle, so hes a bit sore, but will probably try surf
tomorrow. Mika Akima got slammed on the reef and hurt his foot. Rodrigo
got a scratching. And there was broken boards and leashes of course too.
As per my video efforts, I’ve put a few more frame grabs here.
Apologize for not putting up the prime quality shots Dave gets, just
haven’t got round to getting any.